The Hastings Guide

In 1794, John Stell wrote a work entitled 'The Hastings Guide'. Following the sale of Stell's library to James Barry in 1795 a further edition was published in 1797 under Barry's name. At least one more edition was published in 1801; a transcription of this edition is given below:

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View of Hastings taken from The Battery

[ i ]

THE HASTINGS GUIDE;

OR A DESCRIPTION OF THAT ANCIENT TOWN AND PORT AND ITS ENVIRONS;

INCLUDING AN ACCOUNT OF THE

CHURCHES,	CASTLES,	FAIRS,
ANTIQUITIES,	GENTLEMEN'S SEATS,	MARKETS,
RUINS,	WALKS AND RIDES,	FISHERIES,
FORTIFICATIONS,	TRADE,	&c.

ALSO, THE TIMES OF GOING OUT AND COMING IN OF

THE COACHES, POSTS, WAGGONS, HOYS, &c.

WITH A TABLE OF THE DISTANCES FROM HASTINGS TO THE PLACES ADJACENT.

TO WHICH IS ADDED,

SOME ACCOUNT OF THE CINQUE PORTS,

AND A MINUTE DETAIL Or THE FAMOUS

BATTLE OF HASTINGS

BY AN INHABITANT.

Embellished with Four Plates, and a Map of the Environs.

LONDON: PRINTED FOR JAMES BARRY, AT HIS CIRCULATING LIBRARY, HASTINGS.

[ 1 ]

HASTINGS GUIDE.

The vicinity of Hastings abounds with the most delightful walks and rides, the entrances are remarkably numerous, and it is impossible to select any road that does not lead to some scene of rural amusement: the lands are as beautiful as extensive, and the sea exhibits a continual round of passing variety.

The Hop Gardens, Bohemia, the Old Roar, Bexhill, Pevensey, Broomham Park, Winchelsea, Rye, Beauport, Ashburnham, Crowhurst, Battle Abbey, &c. &c. &c. all have charms to please the inquisitive mind or curious or plodding eye.

One circumstance must, above all others, render Hastings dear to those who have a [ 2 ]regard to morality - Vice has not yet erected her standard here; - the numerous tribe of professional gamblers, unhappy profligates, and fashionable swindlers find employment and rapine elsewhere. Innocent recreational delight, card assemblies, billiards, riding, walking, reading, fishing, and other modes of pastime banish care from the mind, whilst the salubrity of the atmosphere impels disease from the body.

The society of Hastings are gay without profligacy, and enjoy life without mingling in its debaucheries.

The town of Hastings is situated upon the sea-coast near the eastern extremity of the county of Sussex, in 50^o 50' 34" N. Lat. and 0^o 37' E. Longitude, and distant 64 miles from London. It is the chief of the Cinque Ports, and, as such, enjoys a number of particular privileges.

Some account of their origin, as given by Camden, Jeake, and others, will be acceptable to many readers. [ 3 ]

ORIGIN OF THE CINQUE PORTS.

Of what antiquity the five ports (commonly called the Cinque Ports) and two ancient towns are, when enfranchised, or, at what time their members were annexed to them, is not mentioned with any degree of certainty; but, according to Lord Coke, it appears that Dover, Sandwich, and Romney, were the ports of special note before the Conquest; and to make the five, William the Conqueror added to them Hastings and Hythe; and afterwards were annexed thereto, the two ancient towns of Winchelsea and Rye.

Lord Coke concludes them all alike enfranchised and privileged; and though Hastings got the precedency of the elder Kentish ports, and is named before, and sits above them, yet it was not because elder than they, or of greater immunities or grandeur, but either by some prenomination in the charter, or confirmation of King William or his successors, or else from the respect the King had to Hastings, on account of the kindness and [ 4 ]free reception he there met with at his first landing in England. But it seems they had some title to that pre-eminence; for in the service to Yarmouth, the town of Hastings found two bailiffs to any of the others one, and paid double the allowance of any of the other towns.

The word cinque necessarily denotes there are but five ports, under which term are comprehended the ancient towns, and the members annexed to the said ports and towns. Those that pass by the appellation of the Cinque, or five ports, and include the rest that enjoy like privileges with them, are

Cinque Ports,	Hastings	in Sussex
	Dover,	in Kent
	Sandwich,
	New Romney,
	Hythe,
Ancient Towns.	Rye,	in Sussex.
	Winchelsea,

.

They are sometimes called the ports, no other ports in England having had such large privileges, or can equal the antiquity of their grants and confirmations, or have been so [ 5 ]eminent for the services they have at various times performed.

The following table shews the members to each port, which are corporate, and which are of.

Members corporate to	Hastings	Pevensey	in Sussex.
		Seaford
	New Romney	Lydd	in Kent
	Dover	Folkstone
		Faversham
	Sandwich,	Fordwich
	Rye,	Tenterden
Members not corporate to Hastings	Bulverhythe	in Sussex.
	Petit Iham,
	Hydney,
	Beaksbourne,	in Kent,
	Grange,
Members not corporate to New Romney	Fromehill, in Sussex and Kent.
	Old Romney,	in Kent.
	Dengemarsh,
	Oswardstone,
Member not corporate to Hythe.	Westheath,	in Kent.
Members not corporate to Dover	Margate,	in Kent.
	St. John's
	Goresend,
	Burchington Wood alias Woodchurch
	St. Peter's
	Kingsdowne,
	Ringwold,

[ 6 ]

Members not corporate to Sandwich	Deal,	in Kent.
	Walmer,
	Ramsgate,
	Stoner,
	Sare,
	Brightlingsea,

Of the members, Seaford only sends burgesses to Parliament. Of many of the others, as Bulverhithe, Petit Iham, Hydney, Old Romney, Dengemarsh, &c. there are now little or no remains.

Of whatsoever standing the ports and ancient towns are, it must be presumed the members are of later date; and though it is not certain how long they have been annexed to their respective ports, or incorporated, as some of them are, yet it is plain they are not all of equal standing, for Tenterden was not united to Rye till the 27th year of the reign of Henry VI. An. Dom. 1449; nor does it appear that Dengemarsh was a member of Romney in the reign of Henry I. for in that reign, a ship being wrecked within the precinct of that liberty, the King's officers would have seized it for his use; but Gaffray, then Abbot of Battle, claimed it [ 7 ] as the property of the Abbey, by virtue of a grant from William the Conqueror, who, among other immunities, had endowed Battle Abbey with the wreck of the sea falling in Dengemarsh ; and Henry I. valuing his father's grant, yielded the matter wholly to the Abbot's own courtesy.

It appears that, for and in consideration of the great services which the five ports, by their fleet and armies, rendered the kingdom, during the invasions of the Danes, and other troublesome times, they were first enfranchised by Edward the Confessor; and in the reign of Edward I. they had their Charter of Confirmation, by which they were made free de toto venditione achato et reachato, which was upwards of 99 years before the city of London had their Charter of foreign bought and foreign sold.

The same Charter confirms all the liberties and freedoms enjoyed by the Cinque Ports before that period; exempts them from all duties on wares and merchandize bought or sold; enables them to buy and [ 8 ]sell openly in any corporation or privileged place, without being bound to the use of brokers or other freemen of such place; empowers their fishermen to land on the quay at Great Yarmouth, deliver their herrings freely all the fishing season, and to mend and dry their nets upon marsh-lands there, yet called the Dennes, (from the word dent used in the charter, signifying to mend and dry nets), for which purpose, the ports formerly sent certain men as their bailiffs, to superintend and decide all differences that might arise during the herring season. But the fishing trade increasing, and becoming profitable, and the town of Great Yarmouth increasing so as to procure a government by a portrieve, or bailiff, (which it had in the time of Edward I.) frequent disputes arose between the portrieve and the ports bailiffs:- the former, being jealous of the privileges the latter possessed, endeavoured to curtail them, so that the ports were often obliged to complain to their Sovereigns for redress; notwithstanding which, they were some times sufferers by the outrage and violence of the people and their head officers. In one [ 9 ]of these affrays, a port bailiff was, by one of their bailiffs, killed, for which he was hanged; and the town, as a badge of punishment, yet pays a certain number of herrings yearly to Windsor Castle, or a sum of money in lieu.

The ports are likewise exempt from any attendance at the shire or county court, and other courts holden for the county, as also from attendance at, or service to the hundred courts.

The Barons of the Cinque Ports, and two ancient towns, have the honour of bearing the canopies over the King and Queen at the coronation, and to dine with the King on that day, when they sit at the first table on the King's right hand. The canopies, with the staves and silver bells, become afterwards the property of the Cinque Ports. Formerly the Barons of Hastings and its members claimed and had one canopy with the staves, bells, and all its appurtenances, to their sole share; whilst the rest of the ports and their members had only the other [ 10 ]canopy with its appurtenances, to divide among them all. But now the ports divide equally. At that time the Barons of Hastings were wont to give the canopy cloth to the Church of St. Richard of Chichester, and the Barons of the other ports gave their's to St. Thomas a Becket, in Christ Church, Canterbury.

The following is the answer of John Duke of Norfolk, High Steward of England, in the reign of Richard III. to the claim of the ports for the honour of bearing the canopy, as belonging to the ports time out of mind.

It is considered that the Barons of the Cinque Ports, according to their claim, be admitted to do their service, viz. to bear the silk cloth sustained by four staves silvered over, with little silver bells gilded, over the King and Queen in the day of their coronation; and after the service performed, to receive and have the same cloths with their appurtenances aforesaid, as their accustomed fees, and also to sit [ 11 ]the same day at the principal table at the right side of the hall.

All thieves and felons of the precincts of the ports, taken out of them, shall be brought back, and there tried and judged.

Ports-men are not obliged to serve at assizes or in juries, out of the ports, against their will, notwithstanding they may possess lands out of the precincts of the ports.

Ships and other vessels belonging to the ports, might enter any of the King's havens or harbours, come to anchor, or lie aground, without being subject to the payment of any dues or customs.

By the charter of Richard II. all fines and penalties for trespasses, misprisons, extortions, conspiracies, and all other offences whatsoever, that in other parts of the kingdom go to the King, are granted to the ports. [ 12 ]The ports have the power of trying all actions, civil and criminal, treason excepted ; though persons deeming themselves aggrieved, may appeal to the Lord Warden of the Cinque Ports, who, upon such complaint, has power to enter the said port and hear and decide upon the matters.

Formerly the inhabitants of the ports were not obliged to serve in the army longer than the King abided, personally, in the field ; nor were they, at any time, to serve in foreign wars, nor were the seamen liable to be pressed in wartime, though this last custom has long been broke through.

The ports-men, contributors to the service of shipping furnished by the ports, were freed from all aids, subsidies, and contributions granted to, or exacted by, the King.

The ports-men were not obliged to serve as constable, bailiff, or other office out of the ports. [ 13 ]These, and many other privileges, were granted to, and enjoyed for many ages by the ports (though most of them have now been long obsolete), as well in consideration of the eminent services they had rendered the kingdom during the incursions of the Danes, and other Piratical Rovers, as of their service of 57 ships which they were obliged to furnish yearly, if required, at their Own cost for 15 days ; but if their service was required for a longer term, they were victualled and paid by the King.

Ships and Men furnished by each Port.

Hastings and its members, 21 ships, armed and manned with 21 men and a boy each.

Dover and its members the same number as Hastings.

Sandwich and its members, 5 ships armed and manned as above.

New Romney and its members the same as Sandwich, [ 14 ]Hythe and its members the same likewise -

Making in the whole 57 ships, manned by 1140 men and 57 boys, which quota of vessels and men the ports actually fitted out till such time as larger ships came into use, when they supplied the navy with two or three, being equivalent in value to their original number of 57. Indeed it appears that the Cinque Ports' fleet formed the chief and best part of the Royal Navy, and upon all occasions were ready to guard the narrow seas from pirates infesting the coasts. During the wars between England and France, they were frequently employed in transporting the King and his forces.

Great reliance seems to have been placed by our Kings on the Cinque Ports' fleet, and not unjustly; for King John in his retirement in the Isle of Wight, was nearly forsaken by all his kingdom, save the Ports' fleet, with which he secured himself till he recovered all again. [ 15 ]In the beginning of the reign of Henry III. the Ports fitted out 40 ships, which putting to sea under the command of Hubert de Burgo (then Warden of the Cinque Ports, and Governor of Dover Castle), came up with, and engaged 80 sail of French men, who were coming to aid Louis, the French King's son; when, after a furious engagement, he took several ships, sunk others, and dispersed the rest.

In the year 1406, the Ports' navy, under the command of Henry Paye, surprised and took 120 French ships laden with salt, iron, and oil.

In the 38th year of Queen Elizabeth, An. 159-5, the Ports, at the Queen's command, fitted out five ships of l6-0 tons burthen, which they maintained five months at their own charge.

These, and many other actions performed by the Ports, evidently shew their great weight and consequence in former times, and that the great privileges and immunities [ 16 ]they did, and still do enjoy, were no more than their zeal and services justly entitled them to.

A modern writer says, the "Cinque Ports were an incorporated body, enjoying an inferior jurisdiction within themselves, subordinate to the Admiralty of England, but more immediately united in the same person, and under the immediate command of the Constable of Dover Castle. From their local situation opposite, and their immediate vicinity to Calais and the French coast, they were from the highest antiquity of great consideration and consequence, for the defence of the British Channel, and of the southern and eastern coasts of this kingdom: and under this idea were invested with high honours, privileges, powers, and immunities, and erected into a bulwark and guard to defend our coasts, able to repel the attacks of foreign enemies whenever they might attempt an invasion

[ 18 ] Hastings, according to Camden, derives its name from a noted Danish pirate who landed here, and built a small fort, in order to protect his men, and secure a retreat, after pillaging the country around. It is pleasantly situated in a valley, surrounded on all sides but the south with high cliffs and hills, which protect it from the cold winds, and render it one of the most; healthy towns in the whole island.

Here is a fine beach, and the purest water for bathing of any along the coast; for which purpose, great numbers of the gentry have of late years resorted from London and the neighbouring country, during the summer season.

The town of Hastings may boast as great antiquity as any place in the kingdom. In the reign of Athelstan there was a mint here, by which it must then have long been in a flourishing condition.

William Rufus, on the death of his father the Conqueror, got possession of the Castles [ 19 ]of Hastings, Dover, and Pevensey, as the first and most essential step towards securing him the throne. The present town may be called the New Town, as there was formerly another which stood without the present one, and was swallowed up by an inundation os the sea ; but when that event happened, is very uncertain. As a proof that the sea has gained considerably on the coast here, an entire hedge has been discovered beneath the surface of the sand at low water, a little to the westward of the town near the white rock, and pieces of wood and stick brought away from it. Some of the present inhabitants remember grass growing below the high water-mark, a little to the westward of the bathing-room.

Mr. Somner, in his account of the Roman ports and forts, seems to think that Hastings or Pevensey was the ancient Anderida of the Romans ; though Mr. Camden places it at Newenden, in Kent. [ 20 ]Hastings gives name to the easternmost of the six divisions of the county of Sussex, called Rapes : the Castle and Rape (which always accompanied it) belonged to the Earls of Ewe, in Normandy, descendants from a natural son of Richard, first Duke of Normandy. Robert, the first Earl to whom it was given, was one of the chief counsellors to William the Conqueror, by whom many other large estates were settled on him. He left this honour to his son William, whose son Henry, upon levying the aid for marrying the daughter of King Henry II. certified that his father in the preceding reign was enfeoffed with 65 Knights' fees, of which he then had 56 in the Rape of Hastings, and for which he paid £40. He left only one daughter and heir; she, marrying Ralf de Yessenden, had by him a son and heir, William, who, after his father's death, adhering to the King of France, and his mother Alice having otherwise forfeited her estate to the Crown, Henry III. in the 29th year of his reign, seized upon it, and gave it to Prince Edward, his son. Peter de Savoy, uncle to Queen Eleanor, being then in great favour at Court, [ 21 ], Henry, in the 31st year of his reign, Committed the keeping of the Castle and honour to him. After his decease the King, causing his Ion to resign it to him, exchanged it with John de Dreux, Earl of Richmond, for certain lands belonging to the honour of Richmond, which Peter de Savoy had passed to the King. In his posterity it for some time continued. Anno 1299 it was again in the Crown, and was by Edward I. granted to John of Britain ; and in 1343, by Edward III. to John of Gaunt, Duke of Lancaster, to hold to him and his heirs : he, afterwards, in 1346, surrendered it to the Crown. Henry IV. Anno 1412, granted it to Sir John Pelham after the death of Ralph, Earl of Westmoreland, to whom it had been granted for life ; by him it was conveyed to Thomas Hoo, which conveyance was confirmed to him by letters patent of Henry IV. in the 33d year of his reign.

Anno 1461, Sir Thomas Hoo conveyed it to Sir William Hastings, and Edward IV. Anno 1462, confirmed this grant by his letters patent. By this family it was enjoyed [ 22 ]till the reign of Richard III. when by the attainder of Lord Hastings it was forfeited to the Crown, but was restored to his son by Henry VII. in the year 1591, and confirmed to him by the royal patent of Henry VIII. in the 7th year of his reign.

It was conveyed by the Earl of Hunting don, Eaward and George Hastings, to Thomas Pelham, of Laughton, Esq. with the Manor of Crowhurst, Burwafh, and Berelham, in consideration of the sum of £2500, and a reserved rent of £L3 6s. 8d. per annum, which rent still continues to be paid The perpetuity of it was granted and confirmed by James I. Anno 1605. In his family it has remained ever since, and at pre sent it belongs to Thomas Lord Pelham, to whom it was bequeathed by the late Duke of Newcastle.

In the reign of Richard II. about the year 1377, this town was burnt by the French, who, taking advantage of the dissensions in that reign, put into Rye with 50 ships, and landing, plundered and burnt that [ 23 ]town. They next attacked Winchelsea ; but being beaten off there, they proceeded to Hastings, which they treated as they had done Rye. After its rebuilding, it was divided into three parishes, St. Clement's, All Saints, and St. Mary in the Castle, as it now remains.

But what renders this place the most celebrated, is the famous

BATTLE OF HASTINGS,

which was fought about seven miles from hence, on the spot where the town of Battle now stands, between William, Duke of Normandy, afterwards surnamed the Conqueror, and Harold, King of England : and as the event of that engagement proved so decisive of the fate of this country, a particular account of it from the best authorities is here inserted.

The Duke having collected an army of 60,000 men at St Valery, (of which 5000 were cavalry) embarked them on board of 900 vessels, and after a passage of sixteen hours, landed at Pevensey, where he [ 24 ]continued several days to refresh his troops. From thence he marched along the shore to Hastings, where he built a Castle upon the hill, and garrisoned it. To such of the inhabitants as had not deserted their houses, he was extremely humane and affable, observing to his soldiers that it would not only be cruel, but impolitic, to spoil those whom he had hopes would soon become the props and supporters of his throne. During his stay there, the Duke one morning set out from the camp, attended by only fifteen horsemen, to take a view of the country ; but the roads being at that time very bad, and having ram bled a great distance, they lost their way ; and their horses being spent with fatigue, they were obliged to return on foot, encumbered with their arms and accoutrements. William Fitzofborne, one of the party, was so jaded and fatigued, being ready to faint under the weight of his armour, that the Duke, who was one of the strongest men of his time, took his helmet, and carried it for him to the camp - a circumstance which, though trivial in it elf, served to raise his character among the soldiers.
[ 25 ]In the meantime, King Harold having received the news of the Duke's arrival, immediately after the battle of Stamford, in which he had defeated the Norwegians with great slaughter, and killed his brother Tosti and King Harfager, hastened to London, which he had appointed as the general rendezvous for his forces ; where, upon mustering his troops, he found them much impaired by the late battle, and the new levies ill-disciplined ; but he trusted to his standing troops, who were numerous and brave, and endeavoured to win upon the rest by treating their Chiefs with respect and affability.

Matters began now to wear a serious aspect. Harold was on the point of marching, when his brother Gurth, a man of bravery and experience, suggested doubts of the propriety of the King's hazarding his person and kingdom on the event of one battle. He thought it would be better policy to prolong the war ; that the desperate situation of William made it requisite for that Prince to bring matters to a speedy decision; but that the King of England, in his own country, provided with [ 26 ]supplies, and beloved by his subjects, might with propriety prolong the war, and by harassing the Normans with skirmishes, and distressing them for want of provisions, they would tall an easy prey to their enemy ; that if a general action was delayed, the English, sensible of the imminent danger to which their properties, as well as liberties were ex osed from those rapacious invaders, would hasten from ail quarters to his assistance, and render his army invincible ; that, at least, if he thought it necessary to hazard a battle, he ought not to expose his own person, but reserve, in case of disastrous accidents, some resource to the liberty and independence of the kingdom.

Harold was deaf to all remonstrances. Elated with his past prosperity, as well as stimulated by his native courage, he resolved to give battle in person ; for which purpose, without even waiting for the Militia of several counties that were marching to join him, he set out for Sussex to meet the Norman army, never halting till within seven miles of them. On the road he was met by a Monk, who [ 27 ]came to propose to him, on the part of the Duke, to determine their cause, either by the judgment of Rome, or by duel, in sight of both armies. The answer returned by him was, that he was advancing to fight a battle, in which God would judge between him and his adversary. William, on the approach of the English, set forward, and encamped within a short distance of them.

Both armies now prepared themselves for this important decision ; but the two camps presented very different scenes the night before the engagement. The English spent their time in feasting and riot - the Normans in silence and prayer. At break of day, the Duke himself heard mass in public, and received the communion.

While he was arming, it happened that his breastplate was put on turned upside down, which some about him considering as a bad omen, he changed it into a good one by saying, with a smile - " It signified only that the strength of his Dukedom should on that day be converted into the [ 28 ]strength of a kingdom." - He then called together the principal officers of his army, and made them a speech suitable to the occasion. He represented to them that the event which they and he had long wished for, was approaching. The whole fortune of the war now depended on their swords, and would be decided in a single action ; that never army had greater motives for exerting a vigorous courage, whether they considered the prize which would attend their victory, or the inevitable destruction that must ensue upon their defeat ; that if their martial and veteran bands could once break those raw soldiers who had dared to approach them, they conquered a kingdom at one blow, and were justly entitled to all its possessions as the reward of their prosperous valour ; that on the contrary, if they remitted, in the least, their wonted prowess, an enraged enemy hung upon their rear, the sea met them in their retreat, and an ignominious death was the certain punishment of their imprudent cowardice.

[ 29 ]The Duke then divided his army into three lines : the first, led by Montgomery and William, son of Fitzofborne, consisted of archers and light armed infantry, with some slingers ; the second, commanded by Geoffrey Martel, Earl of Anjou, was composed of the bravest battalions, heavy armed, and ranged in close order. The cavalry, headed by the Duke himself, formed the third line, and were so disposed, that they stretched beyond the infantry, and flanked each wing of the army.

Harold, on the other side, had performed all the offices of a skilful commander in the disposition of his forces, and in the choice of his ground. Being greatly inferior in numbers, he took post upon a hill ; and having drawn some trenches to secure his flanks, resolved to stand upon the defensive, and to avoid all action with the cavalry, to which he was inferior. The Kentish men formed the van, the Londoners guarded the standard, and the Danish auxiliaries formed the wings. He ordered the cavalry to dismount, and formed his whole army into one deep phalanx [ 30 ]of heavy-armed foot, who, being closely co pacted together, formed the Roman sconce - " that is, the soldiers in the first and last ranks covered their bodies with their bucklers, while those in the middle covered their heads with their's - a disposition that rendered them almost impenetrable, and secured them against the arrows and flings. The royal standard of England was fixed on the spot where Battle Abbey now stands ; and near it the King, dismounting from his horse, placed himself with his two valiant brothers, Gurth and Leofwin, at the head of his infantry, and expressed his resolution to conquer or to perish in the action. Towards the enemy, the descent of the ground was steep ; but the top was level, and wide enough to contain all his men in the close and compact order in which he put them. Behind the phalanx were woods, through which they had marched to that post, and which defended their rear. They were all armed with Danish battle-axes, and had also javelins or darts; but they did not make use in this fight either of long or cross bows, both which weapons were employed with great skill by the Normans.

[ 31 ]Such were the dispositions on either side early on the morning of the 14th or. October, 1066. It was Harold's birthday, and as such, conjectured to be an omen of success. The interest of the two commanders was the same ; the officers were equally desirous of coming to action : every thing wore the aspect of slaughter and of blood, and prognosticated one of those terrible battles, where fury was blended with greatness of foul, and where obstinacy and valour were mingled together.

As the two armies stood fronting each other, the Duke, having thoroughly examined the position of the English, galloped from the place on which he was standing, and appeared in the front ot the first line. He asked one of the soldiers if he could shew him where Harold was stationed. - " He is on yonder opposite hill," replied the man, pointing to it, " among that compacted multitude ; for I see his standard there." - Upon which, the Duke clapped spurs to his horse, and galloped straight to the place where Harold was standing, being followed by the cavalry, whom he had joined. As he was before the [ 32 ]ranks, a champion from Harold's troops advanced to meet him ; but the Duke with one stroke laid his antagonist on the ground. This brought on a general action with the two front lines, which was furious, and remained long undecided ; but the Normans, overcome by the difficulty of the ground, and hard pressed by the enemy, began first to relax their vigour, then to retreat, and confusion was spreading among the ranks, which William observing, hastened with a select band to the relief of his dismayed forces. His pretence restored the action, and the English were obliged to retire with loss.

The Duke now ordered a general charge to be sounded, so that the whole army moved at once, singing the hymn or song of Rollo, the famous Peer of Charlemagne. A shower of darts was the first salute ; but this doing no great execution against the impenetrable wall formed by the bucklers, they advanced to a more close engagement with sabre and hatchet.

[ 33 ]The English sustained the shock with great firmness and intrepidity ; and opening their ranks to let their slingers pass through, those galled the Normans prodigiously, and killed a great number in the first onset. Harold, willing to improve the advantage, ordered fresh troops to advance, to which the Duke opposed some squadrons that were not only repulsed, but the cavalry and infantry of Bretagne, who were stationed upon the left wing with some auxiliaries, were put to flight. At the same time a rumour was spread through the left wing, by the artifice of Harold, that the Duke had been killed by the stroke of a lance ; at which the Normans began to shrink back, and to be filled with horror and consternation. William, alarmed at the fatal consequences that might follow, rode along the lines, and called with a loud voice, "My fellow-soldiers, take courage; your leader is still alive !" He took his helmet from his head, and shewed them his countenance ; and restraining them from flight, cried out, " that he was come to perish with them !" His presence and his voice inspired the re pulsed battalions ; the fainting squadrons were animated to return again to the charge ; [ 34 ]so that, rallying on all hands, the troops poured in upon the enemy from every quarter, sabre in hand, and drove them back in their turn. Many were killed during this close engagement, and such as fled, were cut in pieces ; for the Norman officers ordered no quarter to be given. Thus was the battle restored, solely by the intrepidity of the Duke, on that part ; while on every other, the fight was exceeding fierce and obstinate, without any visible advantage.

On this occasion, Robert, foil to the famous Count de Beaumont, with Toustain du Bee Crespin, Roger Montgomery, and William Mallet, performed prodigies of valour ; but the example of William was beyond all. He was, in a manner, every where, and flew like lightning into those places where was the greatest danger. He encouraged with his voice and with his hand to press forward. His sword was streaming with gore, and his armour all covered with blood and dust. He had three horses killed under him, and one, by so furious a stroke, that the hatchet, after cutting off the head, pierced deep into [ 35 ]the ground. All this while the body of the English army stood firm upon the declivity, and the Normans had suffered greatly through the disadvantage of the ground. William, finding that the enemy, aided by the advantage of the ground, and animated by the example of their Prince, still made a vigorous resistance, had recourse to a stratagem which was delicate in its management, but which seemed advisable in his desperate situation ; where, if he gained not a decisive victory, he was totally undone. He commanded his troops to make a hasty retreat, and to allure the enemy from their ground, by the appearance of flight. The English fell into the snare. Many of their battalions fetched an half compass about the Normans, and planted themselves at the place which they were to pass through, in order to intercept them.

They were quickly in the plain but before they could form, the Norman horse were upon them, and cut them in pieces. The troops rallied on all sides, and returned to the charge in one compacted column; while the English, who had been decoyed from their station, were now in separate corps, which, [ 36 ]one after another, were destroyed by the Norman cavalry. The English, thus repulsed, were driven back to the hill, where, being rallied by the bravery of Harold, who fought on foot the whole day, and killed many of the Normans with his own hand, they were able, notwithstanding their loss, to maintain the post, and continue the com bat. The Duke tried the same- stratagem a second time, and with equal success ; but, even after this double advantage, he still found a great body of the English, who, maintaining themselves in firm array, seemed determined to dispute the victory to the last extremity ; upon which he ordered his heavy armed infantry to make an assault upon them, while his archers, placed behind, should gall the enemy, who were exposed by the situation of the ground. By this disposition he at last prevailed. Harold was slain with an arrow, while combating with great bravery at the head of his men. His two brothers shared the same fate.; and the English, discouraged by the fall of their Princes, gave ground on all sides, and were -pursued . with great slaughter by the victorious Nor[ 37 ]mans. A few troops, however, of the vanquished had still the courage to turn upon their pursuers ; and having got into a valley that was full of deep ditches, they bravely made a new stand. There had been formerly in that place a camp, well known to them, but not to the enemy ; and the entrenchments being covered with shrubs and bushes, many of the Norman horse, pressing onwards in the ardour of pursuit, fell head long into them, while many others were killed by the hands of the English, who here obtained some revenge for the slaughter and dishonour of the day. By this unexpected stand, many of the noblest of the Normans were cut down ; Eustace, Earl of Boulogne, was dangerously wounded by a blow with a stone, while he was earnestly entreating the Duke to retire, and not hazard his person against desperate men, whom the nature of the place so much assisted : but that intrepid Prince, neither regarding the counsel nor the example of the person who gave it, continued the combat till he had driven them out of this strong ground, and completed his victory. [ 38 ]Thus was gained, by William, Duke of Normandy, the great and decisive victory of Hastings, after a battle that was fought from morning until sunset, and which seemed worthy, from the heroic valour displayed by both commanders and both armies, to decide the fate of a mighty kingdom. There fell near 15,000 men on the side of the Normans. The loss was still more considerable on that of the English, besides the death of the King and his two brothers. The dead body of Harold was brought to William, who generously restored it, without ransom, to his mother. The Norman army left not the field of battle without giving thanks to Heaven in the most solemn manner for their victory ; aster which, the Duke, having refreshed his troops, prepared to push to the utmost his advantage against the divided, dismayed, and. discomfited English.

Thus ended the memorable Battle of Hastings, in which the English, though defeated, shewed at least as much valour as those by whom they were vanquished; but less expertness in, the discipline and art of war. [ 39 ]Yet their worst defect seems to have been the want of a cavalry equal to that of the Normans. It was their great inferiority in this respect, which made their pursuit of a. flying enemy fatal to themselves. Nevertheless, neither the loss they had suffered in this action, nor even the death of their King, would have finished the war, could they have agreed under whose standard they should endeavour to maintain it : but the divisions which had Jong disturbed the kingdom, now proved fatal to it ; that want of unanimity among the leading men, with the rapid approach of the Duke to London, soon deter mined the Bishops and Nobility to receive him .as their King; and to complete his triumph, Edgar Atheling, the only rightful heir, finding in his mind no resources against his ill-starred fate, delivered up to William his person and kingdom.

[ 40 ]Hastings had Charters from Edward the Confessor, William I. and II. and Henry II. Richard I. Henry III. Edward I. Elizabeth, and Charles II. Its present Charter was grant ed by James II. by which it is incorporated by the style of Mayor, Jurats, and Commonalty ; Sir Deny Ashburnham, Knight, being the first Mayor under this Charter. Before the time of Queen Elizabeth, the chief Magistrate was styled Bailiff. The Mayor is chosen annually, on the third Sunday after Easter. This town has sent Members to Parliament ever since Edward III. They are elected by a majority of the Jurats and Freemen. The present Members are, Lord Glenbervil, and G. W. Gunning, Esq.

The entrance to Hastings by the London road, from Fairlight Down, is one of the finest that can be imagined. It opens on a smooth terrace from the Down, from whence is an extensive prospect of Pevensey Bay, Beachy Head, Bourne Hills, and a wide range of sea ; when through the turnpike gate, the Valley of Hastings appears, discovering the Upper Church, and the tops of houses. A beautiful engraved view, taken [ 41 ]

 

View of the entrance to Hastings by the London Road

[ 42 ]

[ 43 ]from Hastings Hill, is here annexed. At the bottom of the hill you enter a pleasant shady lane, on each side of which are tall spreading trees, whose branches in the summer form an impenetrable arch, through which you enter to the town, consisting of two parallel streets of considerable length, running nearly north and south, and opening to the sea, with several lesser ones, intersected by gardens, and a suburb, which extends along the beach. Between the two main streets runs a small stream of water called the Bourne, which empties itself into the sea. Here are a number of handsome modern built houses ; and from the spirit of improvement manifested at most watering-places, more are likely to be soon built. A plan has been much talked of for building a row of houses in a field called the Croft, that runs parallel with the main street, and commands a fine view of the sea. Two houses are already built, and more will be begun this summer. Five lodging-houses have lately been built by Mr. Satterly, and two by Mr. Carly, at the west end of the fort, [ 44 ]from which place to the Bathing-house, westward by Barry's Library, it is intended to make a new parade, a subscription for which purpose is now begun ; and the money already subscribed, is deposited in the Hastings Bank. Many persons, with a spirit truly laudable, farmers, and owners of teams, have subscribed also five pounds, and some ten pounds labour to bring stone for carrying on the work, which will be begun early in the spring. This town was lately new paved, which, by removing a number of obstructions and nuisances, has added greatly to its convenience and beauty.

The valley in which the town of Hastings is built, forms a beautiful and spacious amphitheatre of an oval figure, sloping to the south, the houses and gardens rising gradually to the east and west, and the hills to the north. The Barracks, which are now building about half a mile from Hastings, in a field near the turnpike-gate, command a view of the town, the hills and vallies, the sea, Pevensy Bay, and the country around - beautiful beyond description. [ 45 ]

CHURCHES.

Here are two parish Churches, St. Clement's and All Saints. About thirty years ago they were separate livings, but being very poor ones, from the little land within the parishes, they were united into one Rectory, which does not much exceed £150 per annum. The living is in the private patronage of Sir Godfrey Webster, Bart, and the present incumbent is the Rev. William Coppard. The Churches are both very ancient fabrics, though it is uncertain when they were built, as no account is to be found concerning them. In St. Clement's, commonly called the Lower Church, are several curious inscriptions in brass and marble.

On the north side of the chancel, within a large gilt frame, is one that deserves to be recorded.

" This Corporation having received many
" generous and great benefactions from the
" Hon. Archibald Hutcheson, Esq. one of
[ 46 ]" their Barons, in Parliament, in the reign of
" her late Majesty, Queen Ann (of ever
" blessed and glorious memory) , and also, since
" his present Majesty's accession to the throne,
" have caused this inscription to be made for the
" perpetuating their grateful sense thereof:-

" And to declare, that to him
" they are obliged for his gift to	£100
" repair the Church,
" For his gift to build and increases
" the ships and vessels of this	300
" Corporation, for the benefit
" of the poor, upwards of
" For his gift, as a perpetual fund
" to be lent, without interest, to	100
" poor fishermen, to enable them
" to carry on their trade
" For his gift in paving with
" marble, wainscoting, painting,
" and ceiling this chancel, and	125
" in making and railing the
" altar-piece, - - -
	£625

[ 47 ]

" He also contributed towards the plate
" used at the altar, and the velvet covering
" for the communion table, and has been a
" benefactor to the Free School. Besides
" which, there is lodged among the records
" of this Corporation (as his gift) his col-
" lection of Treatises, in relation to the Na
" tional Funds and Debts, and several me
" thods for discharging the same, and his
" most seasonable declarations against the late
" South Sea Scheme, and the wicked execu-
" tion thereof, all which, at his own expence,
" he published for the service of his country."
" Set up the 20th Jan. An. Dom. 1721."

Opposite the above, on the south side, is a handsome marble monument, to the memory of the late John Collier, Esq. of this town.

In this Church is likewise a very neat altar-piece, by Mortimer. On the ceiling is a representation of the heavenly regions, and underneath at the corners, are the figures of Faith, Hope, and Charity. - The font is a curious piece of antiquity; it is an octagon, [ 48 ]on the squares of which are carved in relievo, the instruments of our Saviour's passion. The gallery was erected about twelve years ago by subscription, and the pews disposed of by lot among the subscribers and for the convenience of the summer company, benches have been made and placed in the chancel, the congregation being in general too numerous for the pews.

All Saints, or (as it is usually called) the Upper Church, is a much larger and loftier building, but contains nothing material, except the pulpit-cloth, which was part of the canopy held over Queen Anne at her coronation ; and an ancient gravestone at the upper end of the north aisle. The figures of a man and woman are cut on it in lines ; it had an inscription round the edge, which, except the word " anno," is quite obliterated by the wear of feet.

It appears there was formerly another Church called St. Michael, and an Hospital of St. Mary Magdalene ; but no certain accounts are to be obtained concerning them. [ 49 ]And upon the eastern hill, in a small square field, stood a Church, called St. George's ; the last remains of which, inconsiderable and of little account, were levelled by the late Rector some twenty-five years ago. There had likewise been a Church or Chapel on the hill, just over the east well : human skeletons, bones, and fragments of buildings have been discovered at times, on the falling away of the cliff.

TOWN HALL.

Here is a Town Hall or Court House, erected in 1700, with a market-place under it. In the Hall is a shield bearing the arms of France, brought from Quebec after the taking of that place, and presented to this Corporation by General Murray; likewise a frame, containing a long list of the Mayors of Hastings. It commences in 1500, at which time a Bailiff was the chief Magistrate, the first Mayor being sworn in 1560. Over the Mayor's seat are the arms of Charles II. Here is a Custom-house, a col[ 50 ]lector and comptroller, and Custom-house officers. In the Fish-street (commonly called the back-street) are two houses, famous for the residence of two distinguished, though very opposite characters, the gallant Admiral Sir Cloudsley Shovel, and the noted Titus Oates, though it must in justice be remembered that the latter was not a native of Hastings.

TOWN WALL.

This Town was formerly defended, next to the sea, by a strong wall which ran across the valley from hill to hill, and had two gates, one at the bottom of the Oak-hill, the other to the eastward, at the bottom of the Fish-street: there are some remains of it yet standing, at a place called the Bourne's Mouth, which runs from thence to the gate-steps, near Mr. Capell's house, and proves it to have been of considerable strength and thickness. To the eastward of the town, upon the hill, are the vestiges of a Roman encampment, plainly discernible. It is of considerable extent, and [ 51 ]

[ 52 ]

 

North West view of Hastings Castle

[ 53 ]appears to have been very strongly fortified, for which purpose the situation is admirable.

THE CASTLE.

Upon the hill to the westward of the town, are the remains of a large and very ancient Castle, in shape nearest two sides of an oblique spherical triangle, having the points rounded off. The base or south side, completing the triangle, is formed by a perpendicular craggy cliff, in length about 400 feet, which seems to have had no wall or other fortification : indeed, such would have been entirely useless, Nature having made it sufficiently inaccessible on the side opposite the sea. The east side is made by a plain wall, without tower or other defence, and measures 300 feet. Its adjoining side, which faces the north-west, is about 400 feet ; a perpendicular let fall upon the south side or rock, from the angle formed by the junction of the walls, measures about 260 feet, and the area included is about one acre and a quarter. The walls, which are no where entire, are in some places 8. feet thick. The gateway was on [ 54 ]the north side near the northern angle, but has been long demolished. Near it, to the westward, are the remains of a small tower, enclosing a circular flight of stairs -

-The tower that long had stood
The crush of thunder and the warring winds,
Shook by the slow, but sure destroyer Time,
Now hangs in doubtful ruins o'er its base.

— Armstrong

And on the same side, farther on to the west, is a sally-port, and the ruins of a square tower. Just within the sally-port is every appearance of an entrance to a vault, by steps which are now choked up with rubbish. Behind the east wall is a dry ditch, about 60 feet deep, and 100 feet wide at the top.

At what time the present building was erected, or who was the builder, does not appear from either Leland, Camden, or any of those writers who have treated of the antiquities of this county. From the situation of the spot, which seems extremely proper for the ancient mode of fortification, it is [ 55 ]more than probable here was some sort of fortress in very early times, long before the coming of the Normans. This conjecture receives some confirmation from a passage in the chronicles of Dover Monastery, printed in Leland's Collectania, which says, " That when Arviragus threw off the Roman yoke, he fortified those places which were most convenient for their invasion, namely, Richborough, Walmore, Dover, and Hastings."

In the History of Canterbury, written by Eadmer, and published by the learned Selden, it appears that in the year 1090, almost all the Bishops and Nobles of England Were assembled by Royal authority, at Hastings, to pay personal homage to King William II. who was on his return to Normandy. Father Anselm likewise attended, offering up his prayers to Heaven for the safety of the King during the voyage. But the King and Nobles were detained here more than a whole month, the wind being contrary. During that interval, Anselm consecrated, in the Church of the Virgin Mary, (which is within the Castle walls) Robert Bloet, to [ 56 ]the Church of Lincoln, by the approbation of seven of his brethren, who assisted at the ceremony.

Little more concerning this Castle occurs in history, except what is recorded of the free Royal Chapel, dedicated to the Virgin Mary, wherein were a Dean and several secular Canons or Prebendaries, to which Henry de Augo or Ewe (who lived in the time of Henry I.) was benefactor. It was said, 27th Edward I. that the gift of the Prebends had been in the Crown ever since the Barony. Hastings came into the King's hands but before that, Conan Augi was Patron. In the 26th Henry VIII. the Deanery was valued at £20 per ann. and all the seven Prebends at £41 13s. 5d. The College and Deanery were granted 38 Henry VIII. to Sir Anthony Brown. It appears, by a patent, 5th Edward III. that the Dean had licence to build himself a mansion within the walls of the Castle.

Prynne, in his history of Papal Usurpations, mentions the following circumstances [ 57 ]relative to the Chapel here : he has likewise preserved the original writs.

In the 8th King John, John Redmond, coming from Rome to lay claim to a Prebend of Hastings, sued to the King for licence and safe conduct to come in and return from England, which was granted upon this condition, that on his arrival, he should give security that he came hither for no ill to the King, nor for any other business but that Prebend.

In the first year of Edward III. that King issued a commission for visiting the free Chapel at Hastings, and placing a Dean therein : this commission was directed to William of Feversham ; and in the 27th of the same reign, a writ was issued by the King, forbidding and restraining certain oppressions, by the Bishop of Chichester, of which two Canons, William de Lewes and Walter de Tothythe, then complained. Nevertheless, the same year, the Bishop pretending that, as this Chapel was under his jurisdiction, all the Prebendaries ought to be [ 58 ]presented and admitted by him ; the King thereupon issued his writ to the Warden of the- Cinque Ports, to enquire into the ancient usage, and to inform him thereof at the meeting of the next Parliament, to which he adjourned the dispute, and directed the Prebendaries to attend and defend their privileges, and lo make themselves masters of the state of this question, when Conan Augi was Patron. It seems, however, that it was not then determined ; for in the next year, the Bishop renewed his claim, and the Prebendaries were again directed to search for precedents. The Archbishop of Canterbury, probably instigated by the Bishop of Chichester, now claimed, from his Metropolitan authority, a right of visitation ; but the King issued his prohibition, forbidding him to do any act that might infringe the rights of that Chapel. This writ was entered on the clause roll. The next year, the King being inform ed that, notwithstanding his prohibition, the Archbishop persisted in his visitation, he, by a writ to Stephen Sprot, then Constable of the Castle, directed him not to permit {he Bishop, or any from him, to exercise [ 59 ]any ecclesiastical jurisdiction within the free Chapel. In the 31st of the same reign, the Archbiship cited one of the Prebendaries for exercising that office on the King's presentation, without being admitted by him or the Bishop of Chichester, during the suit and question in the King's Courts, Whilst things thus remained unsettled, the Archdeacon of Lewes attempted also to visit this place, but was stopped by the King's order. In the 33rd year of the same King, the Archbishop, having excommunicated the Keeper of Hastings Castle for his obedience to the royal command, in refusing him admittance to visit the Chapel ; and during the absence of the Keeper, caused his Commissioners to visit it, and place therein a Dean ; the King thereupon issued a writ, to summon the Archbishop personally to appear before him at a day, to answer for these high contempts to his Crown and dignity ; and another writ was sent to Robert de Burghersh, the Constable of Dover Castle, to go to Hastings, and enquire into the truth of the premises, to remove the new Dean there placed unduly, to appoint another in his room, and to cer[ 60 ]tify him the next Parliament of all his proceedings therein. How this matter then terminated, does not appear ; but, in the reign of Henry VI. the Chapel, with its appendages, was put under the jurisdiction of the Bishop of Chichester and the Arch deacon - From this Castle there are a variety of beautiful and extensive views ; to the south, a great extent of water ; to the west East Bourne.

THE PRIORY.

A little to the westward of the Castle cliffs is a farmhouse, called the Priory : here was a Priory of black Canons, founded in the reign of Richard I. by Sir Walter Bricet, and dedicated to the Holy Trinity :- some remains of old walls are yet to be seen. The Priory estate now belongs to Sir Horace Mann.

Close to the farmyard is a piece of water, which being drained off a few years ago, discovered a large hole near thirty feet deep, with the remains of a sluice, deep gates, and immense large timbers. [ 61 ]

THE STADE.

Hastings had formerly a good harbour, a. large wooden pier that ran out in a south east direction below where the fort now stands, admitting large vessels to lie, and unload alongside ; but about the beginning of Queen Elizabeth's reign, this pier was destroyed by a storm, since which time it has remained a Stade, as it now is. Camden says, in his Britannia, " that Queen Elizabeth granted a contribution towards the making a new harbour at Hastings, which was begun ; but the contribution was quickly converted into private purses, and the public good neglected." - Very large pieces of timber, the remains of the pier, are still to be seen at particular times, at low water, when the tide has swept away the beach, covered by enormous rocks, which were brought there to form the foundation ; and three or four long rows of piles are visible every day at half ebb, which shew the direction in which the pier ran.

The method of getting the sloops and cutters [ 62 ]cutters up and down the Stade, is surprising to those who have never witnessed any thing of the kind They are wound up by a capstan with three or four horses, and are then in general empty, but loaded when they go down ; and the facility and expedition with which such large heavy bodies (vessels from 50 to 100 tons burthen; are moved, is wonderful :- pieces of wood well greased, are laid for the vessel's keel and side to run on ; a large wooden screw is then applied to her bows, with which she is set a-going. When she has run as far as is thought proper, she is stopped at pleasure by cables round the capstans the pieces of wood, called troughs, are relaid, and she is put in motion again ; and so on till she is far enough to float when the tide returns.

THE FORT.

At the west end of the Stade is a Fort, that mounts six twenty-four pounders, built about thirty years ago, prior to which there were two small batteries ; one, where Mr. Milward's house now stands, and the Gun[ 63 ]ner's house was built on the site of the other. The present fort is an excellent barrier against the sea in violent gales of wind ; which would otherwise have broke into, and considerably damaged the suburbs, particularly in January, 1792, when there happened an extraordinary high tide, with a most furious gale of wind at south, which did a deal of mischief both here and at other parts of the coast. The oldest inhabitants never remembered the sea flowing so high as on that day. Some capstans and rope-shops, which had stood for years Unmolested by the tides, were torn up, and washed along the shore. A large boat, of 15 or 20 tons burthen, that stood near the Bourne's mouth, was washed off its wood, and thrown up against the houses. The vessels upon the Stade were all in great danger. The banks along the road to the west ward of the town, were all broke in upon, and in many parts carried away. The suburbs were a continued stream, the water coming through the houses, carrying with it tables, chairs, bureaus, &c. which, with men, women, and children wading about from [ 64 ]house to house, formed a scene at once distressing and laughable. Fortunately it happened in the daytime : had it been in the night, the consequences might have been much more disastrous.

THE SOIL

Of Hastings is of a loamy quality, and in many places a stiff clay : the chief grains sown, are wheat, oats, and barley. A considerable deal of wood and waste lands, in the environs of this place, have been cleared and brought into culture within the last twenty or thirty years.

CLIMATE.

The air of Hastings is accounted remarkably pure and salubrious, which is evinced by the healthy looks and longevity of the inhabitants : its situation is also admirable, being enclosed with hills on all sides but the south, to which it lies open ; and the great quantity of garden-ground which divides the two main streets, admits a free cir[ 65 ]dilation of air between the houses. Indeed few towns abound so much with gardens ; scarce a house but has its spot of ground ad joining, forming at once a source of health, pleasure, and profit to its possessor.

THE POPULATION

Of Hastings is pretty considerable for the size of the town ; it is computed at about three thousand souls, in which number are included between two and three hundred fishermen and other seamen.

THE WARM BATHS,

lately erected by subscription of the inhabitants near the Marine Library, are deemed very convenient, and give general satisfaction.

MINERAL WATERS.

In the neighbourhood of this town are several chalybeate springs ; but their particular virtues have not as yet been ascertained. [ 66 ]

TRADE.

The trade of this town was formerly very considerable. Fifty or sixty years ago they had vessels which traded from hence up the Straits ; the fishery was then much more considerable than it is now, especially the herring, of which great quantities were dried and exported. It has already been seen by the ancient charters, that boats went from thence during the herring season to Yarmouth, there to catch and dry their fish. They used likewise to go to the North Foreland and Margate for the same purpose, though that custom has been long dropped; and, for several years past, a number of large boats come annually from Brighton to Hastings, where they stay the season, to catch and sell their fish. Within the last thirty years, the fisheries have very much declined, though there are now great quantities of herrings, mackerel, and trawl-fish caught, and sent to the London markets in carts, as well as supplying the country around ; besides about 1500 barrels of herrings, of about 800 to the barrel, that are annually dried, and sent to the different markets, where, from their superior [ 67 ]flavour, they in general fetch a better price than any others. A trial has lately been made at exporting them, though, from a variety of unforeseen circumstances, it does not appear to have answered the expectations that were formed ; yet the persons concerned being mostly monied men, it is to be hoped they will not be discouraged from pursuing so desirable a plan.

The herring season commences about the beginning of November, and is generally over by the middle of December. The reader may form some idea of the extent and value of this branch of our fishery, even in its present decayed state, on being told, as a fact, that there are 97 fishing boats of from 4 to 20 tons burthen each ; and that in one day as many herrings were landed on the beach, as sold for upwards of £900. After the herring voyage, comes the trawl-fishing, which comprehends soles, plaice, skate, thornbacks, maids, and some turbot. About May commences the mackerel season, and continues till about August, when flat- fish again comes in, and em ploys the fishermen till the return of the herring voyage. Whitings are caught here in  [ 68 ]the autumn ; they afford excellent sport to those who are fond of angling. Boats may be hired at a small expence with proper lines and hooks a few herrings are easily procured for bait; and thus equipped, a party may pass a few hours, cr the day, in the most delightful manner : some cold meat, and a few bottles of porter, ought not to be forgot. The whitings will bite as fast as you can let down your hooks, and in a few hours you may return loaded with fish.

A great deal of plank, iron, and grain are brought here from the country, to be exported coastwise, though the iron branch (which consisted chiefly in cannon from the founderies at Rothersbridge and Ashburnham) has failed considerably within these few years, owing to the great scarcity of wood for heating the furnaces ; for since hop-planting is become so principal a branch of the farmer's system, the woods that are now remaining, are chiefly reserved for hop-poles.

The only imports of any consequence besides fish, are coals, of which the quantity has considerably increased since Hastings has [ 69 ]become the fashionable summer resort of the nobility and gentry. The following table will mew the exports and imports for eleven years, beginning with the year 1789 ; also the number of boats employed each year in the mackerel and herring fisheries, with those that come annually from Brighthelmstone.

Exports					Imports	Mackerel Voyage	Herring Voyage
	Plank Loads	Iron Tons	Wheat Qrs.	Oats Qrs.	Coals Chaldrons	Hastings Boats	Hastings Boats	Brighton Boats
From May 1778 to May 1779	327 ½	293 ¼	1331	832	766 ½	38	41	8
80	214	348 ¼	1002	850	781	44	40	8
81	374 ½	256 ½	1556	1043	44	43	13
82	285	224	1369	1995	543 ½	52	43	15
83	288	266	1220	1989	844 ¾	49	54	22
84	178 ½	78 ½	364	1835	1056	46	28	25
85	268 ½	3	424	2206	1209 ¾	46	46	24
86	225	184	2822	1324	1373	42	49	20
87	267 ½	152	2522	1910	1306 ¾	40	49	30
88	305 ½		2151	971	1200 ¼	44	46	32
89	183	¾	252	744	1460 ¾	43	55	23

[ 70 ]Of these boats, some are large and some small ones, carrying from three to seven or eight men in each, according to the size.

LIME COMPANIES AND BRICK KILN.

Here were two Lime Companies, but they are now united into one, and burn upon an average about 120,000 bushels per year. The Kilns are situated some distance to the westward of the town. The chalk is fetched from pits in the neighbourhood of East Bourne, in small sloops, of about 40 tons burthen ; which, with the men and boys who break the chalk for burning, employ a great number of people for about four months in the year.

BANK.

About six years ago a Bank was established here, under the firm of Tilden, Shadwell, Hilder, Harvey, and Gill, which proves of great utility to the town, and especially to the summer visitants, who are now at no loss to get their drafts discounted. [ 71 ]

SHIP AND BOAT BUILDING.

On the Priory Ground (a description of which is given in page 56, and which within the last four years lay entirely waste) are formed two Rope Walks, from 120 to 150 fathoms in length, running parallel with the shore, a little above high water mark : they are the property of Messrs. Thwaites and Messrs. Breeds and Co. On this spot also, Mr. Hamilton has a Ship Yard, in which a considerable business is carried on : a sloop of war of 22 guns is at present on the stocks, and a brig of 14 guns will shortly be set up.

Capstans for drawing up large vessels have been erected ; and when the improvements are completed, it will doubtless prove a better stade than that at the town, which the sea, when the tides run high, continually damages. Nature has here formed a place for a harbour, which is greatly wanted on this part of the coast and as the advantage which commerce would derive from it, would be incalculable, we hope that the public spirit will [ 72 ]soon be manifested in carrying this desirable object into effect.

A great number of fishing boats, long boats, &c. are also built in this town, for which the boat-builders are esteemed famous ; and the cutters that have been built, are much admired for the beauty of their shape.

MARKETS.

The market days are on Wednesdays and Saturdays : they are well attended in general by the country butchers, and afford plenty of fine meat, particularly South Down mutton, which is esteemed much superior in flavour to any other : the town is also well attended by people from the country, with fowls, butter, &c. at reasonable prices. Upon the whole, most articles are to be had as cheap at Hastings as at any other town equally distant from the metropolis -- many cheaper ; and would the principal families in and near country towns, by dealing more with country shopkeepers, hold out encou[ 73 ]ragement to sell cheap, instead of sending to London for the greatest part of what they consume, and for which they often pay dearer, exclusive of the carriage, commodities of all kinds would be much more reasonable ; but where a tradesman returns his money only once or twice in a year, he is under the necessity of putting on a larger profit than he would, were his returns quicker.

FAIRS.

Here are three Fairs in the year ; one on Whit-Tuesday ; the second on the 26th and 27th of July, called Rock Fair ; and the third on the 23d of November : but Rock Fair is the only one worth notice, and that has fallen off considerably within the last twenty years : it is for pedlars' goods.

THE POST

From London comes in every morning about nine o'clock, Mondays excepted; and goes out every afternoon at five, Saturdays excepted. [ 74 ]

STAGE COACHES.

A Stage Coach runs between London and Hastings every Monday, Thursday, and Saturday throughout the year ; and on Wednesday also, during the summer season : - it sets out from the Swan Inn, Hastings, at five, and from the Bolt-in-Tun Inn, Fleetstreet, London, at six in the morning. The two coaches meet at Tunbridge about noon, where they exchange passengers and parcels, and return home at night.

WAGGONS.

Two Waggons (one from the WhiteHart, the other from the Spur Inn, in the Borough) set out every Thursday morning at two o'clock, from London, and arrive at Hastings on Saturday noon ; from whence, after delivering their goods, they return the fame afternoon, and reach London on Wednesday morning. A waggon likewise goes once a week from the George Inn, Hastings, to Lewes. [ 75 ]

HOYS.

Several Sloops or Hoys trade between London and Hastings to carry goods when in the river, they lie at Griffin's Wharf, Tooley street, a list of which is here inserted under the head of coasting vessels.

BATHING MACHINES.

The Bathing Machines (of which there are fifteen or sixteen very good ones) stand to the westward of the town, close to the Parade, on which is a small box, called the Bathing Room, for the use of company, while waiting for the Machines. No watering-place can excel Hastings in the convenience of bathing - few can equal it. At low water there is a fine level sand runs out a great distance ; and the shore is of such a gentle gradual ascent, that you bathe with the greatest ease and safety, either at high or low water. The sea here is at all times free from weeds or dirt, which is so common at many other parts of the coast ; and the water perfectly clear and pure. [ 76 ]

ASSEMBLY ROOM.

Here is a very good Assembly Room at the Swan Inn, with a gallery for the music. The assemblies, during the season, are once a week, and the rooms three times a week, with tea drinkings every Sunday evening.

THE LIBRARIES.

The Marine Library is situated near the Parade and Bathing Machines, fronting the sea, and has been built by Barry within these few years, with a Billiard Room over it ; which, with the daily newspapers, and other accommodations, renders it a pleasant, convenient, and agreeable lounge. Mr. Norton has also lately commenced another Library nearly in the center of the Market Street.

LODGINGS.

The Lodgings here are numerous and good, several new houses having, within these three or four years, been built for the purpose of letting ; and more are in contemplation. [ 77 ]Hastings is abundantly supplied with most excellent fresh water. A little to the eastward of the town is a spring, called the East Well, that issues out of the cliff, and is much esteemed as very fine water ; besides which, there are several pumps : and the Bourne stream, which runs through the middle of the town, is exceeding good for all culinary purposes.

WALKS AND RIDES.

The country round Hastings abounds with a variety of pleasant Walks and Rides. The sea view being most novel to strangers, they may begin their excursions by visiting Bexhill, or Beckes-hill, a neat village about six miles distant. Pass the Library, under the Castle cliffs, and over

THE WHITE ROCK,

On the top of which was a battery with three pieces of cannon, taken from our Gallic enemies, on board the Sans Pareille, on the memorable first of June ; but since gone to [ 78 ]to decay : a little beyond which, are the remains of a ruin on the edge of the cliff, supposed to have been St. Leonard's Chapel. About a quarter of a mile further on, at a place called the " Old Woman's Tap," is the rock on which it is supposed William the Conqueror dined after his landing : it hangs over a pool of water, and still retains the name of the " Conqueror's Table."

Proceed on to

BO-PEEP,

A public-house by the road-side, where company may have an excellent dish of tea and good cream, al fresco, and enjoy a fine prospect of the sea and Beachy Head,, from the hill behind the house. From Bo-Peep to Bulverhythe is about a mile and a half over . the levels, which in winter abound with snipes and wild fowl, and some plover. Here was formerly an Haven of the same name, but no remains of it are now visible. In a field behind the house, are the ruins of an ancient [ 79 ]

[ 80 ]

 

[ 81 ]Church or Chapel. The white house on the cliff, known by the name of the Tent, belongs to Mr. Pelham, from whose park to this place is a private road. From hence the road lies through some pleasant shady lanes ; but being in many parts very narrow, it is proper that a carriage should have a horseman some distance before, in order to prevent other carriages from meeting where there is not room to pass.

BEXHILL

Is situated on an eminence that commands a very extensive view on every side. Camden says that this place was much frequented by Saint Richard, Bishop of Chichester, who died here.

PEVENSEY BAY AND CASTLE.

From Bexhill to Pevensey is a gradual descent of about seven miles. This place, though now a small village, was once a town of great eminence, and a seaport. It is reckoned among those ravaged by Earl [ 82 ]Godwin, in the time of Edward the Confessor, and gives its name to the Bay, and rape or division in which it is situated. An engraved view is here annexed of this Bay, including Beachy Head, and the ruins of Hastings Castle, taken from the field which terminates the lane near Mr. Milward's farm.

Pevensey Bay is particularly famous for being the landing place of William the Conqueror, when he came to assert his right to the Crown of England against Harold ; and had he come over with an intention of assisting, instead of dethroning him, he could not have been permitted to land his troops with greater deliberation and safety, the King being with his army opposing an invasion in the North, and the navy with drawn from the coast, owing to a report which the Duke had spread, of having laid aside his designs for that year. Miserable insecurity ! - but we order those matters otherwise now in Sussex. This coast ;s now lined with troops, and a number of batteries at proper distances, which, with the [ 83 ]numerous volunteer corps that are every where assembling and arming for mutual defence, render a visit from our Sans Culottes neighbours a matter of much less moment and concern, than it was seven centuries ago.

The only object worth particular notice here is the Castle, which is undoubtedly of very great antiquity ; built, as is evident from the number of Roman bricks employed in it, out of some Roman fortress but the name of the builder, with the date of its erection, are equally unknown. Some persons, from the regularity of the strata of Roman bricks, have been induced to think it of Roman construction.

William the Conqueror being settled on the throne, gave this Town and Castle to Robert, Earl of Morton, in Normandy, his brother by his mother's side, and created him Earl of Cornwall, which he enjoyed, with divers other honours, during the reign of that King ; but in the succeeding one of William Rufus, Robert took part with his brother Odo, Earl of Kent, in an [ 84 ]insurrection in favour of Robert Courthose, and held out this Castle against the King; but, on the arrival of the Royal Army, he surrendered, and made his peace. He was a very devout person, according to the standard of piety of those days - namely, benefactions to monasteries; for, beside what he did for other religious houses, he gave to the Abbey of Greistein, in Normandy, the house of one Engeler, in this town, and granted to them, in his forest of Pevensel, paunage and herbage, with timber for repair of their Churches and houses, and fuel for fire. When he died, is not known.

He was succeeded in his possessions by William, Earl of Morton and Cornwall, who, on being refused the Earldom of Kent by Henry I., joined with Robert de Belesme, Earl of Shrewsbury, in a rebellion ; whereupon the King seized on all his pos sessions, razed most of his Castles to the ground, and banished him the realm. King Henry being thus possessed of this Town and Castle, gave them to Gilbert de Aquila with all the lands thereunto belonging, [ 85 ]which were, in allusion to the name of its owner, styled the Honour of the Eagle. He was succeeded by his son Ricker, or Richard, who, engaging in an attempt to restore Wil liam, the son of Robert Courthose, to his father's honours, his estates were forfeited, and this Castle and Town reverted to the Crown ; but his uncle Rotro procuring his pardon from the King, his estates were restored to him : notwithstanding which, he again engaged in the same rebellion, and the King, having again seized his lands and Castles, settled them upon Henry, after wards King, by the name of Henry II. who assigned this Town and Castle of Pevensey to William, son of King Stephen, who held them till Henry's accession to the Crown ; and in the 4th year of his reign, surrendered them to him, upon condition that he, the laid William, should have and enjoy, by hereditary right, all the lands that belonged to his father, King Stephen, before he became King of England. This honour being thus put into the King's hands, he re turned them to Richard de Aquila, whose posterity enjoyed them some time quietly. [ 86 ]In the fifth year of this reign, the Knights of Pevensey paid to that King five marks, for what was then styled a donum, as appears by Maddox's History of the Exchequer.

In the sixth of King John, according to the same authority, Pevensey, among other trading towns, paid a quinxieme, or tax for its merchandise ; and in the ninth of the same reign, the Barons of Pevensey fined forty marks, for licence to build a town upon a spot between Pevensey and Langley ; the same to enjoy the like privileges as the Cinque Ports, and that they might have One annual Fair to last seven days, commencing on the Anniversary of St. John the Baptist ; also a market every Sunday.

In the reign of Henry III., Gilbert de Aquila, the third of that name, held this honour, who by many disorders made him self obnoxious to the King ; and passing over to Normandy without the Royal licence, Henry took that opportunity of seizing upon all his effects, lands, and Castles. [ 87 ]Among them was this honour, which in the nineteenth year of his reign he granted to Gilbert Marshal, Earl of Pembroke - probably during pleasure ; for the same King, in the twenty- fifth year of his reign, bestowed it on Peter de Savoy, uncle to his Queen, in all likelihood on the same terms : and afterwards, viz. thirtieth of his reign, he granted him the inheritance thereof, with the Castle and its appurtenances. How it came afterwards to the Crown, does not appear ; but King Henry again, in the 30th of his reign, gave this whole honour to Prince Edward and his heirs, Kings of England; so that it should never be severed from the Crown.

In the fifteenth year of the reign of Edward II. Robert de Sapy was entrusted with this Castle, as appears by the King's writ, recorded in Maddox, directing him to provide it with victuals and munition. Whether he was at that time Sheriff or Constable of the Castle does not appear. [ 88 ]Notwithstanding the proviso made by Henry III. to prevent its being separated from the Crown, yet when John of Gaunt, Duke of Lancaster, and fourth son of King Edward III. married Constance, the sole heir of Don Pedro, King of Castile, in whose right he assumed the title of King of Castile, he, upon surrendering the Earldom of Richmond, and all the estates and lands thereunto belonging, had a grant general in tail of the Castle and Luecate of Pevensey, as also of the free Chapel with in the said Castle ; which, upon his death, , returned to the Crown, by the accession of his son and heir, Henry IV., who succeeded King Richard II. soon after his father's death. Some part of this honour of the Eagle, fays Camden, King Henry IV. gave to the family of the Pelhams for their loyalty and valour, which they still enjoy.

Before the reign of James I. this Castle was a parcel of the possessions of the Dutchy of Lancaster ; for that King, in the twenty-second year of his reign, did, by his letters patent, under the seal of that Dutchy, dated the [ 89 ]18th of June, grant to Edward, Earl of Dorset, the offices of Steward of the Honour of the Eagle, of the Forest of Ashdown, Castle of Pevensey, and Portreave of Pevensey, to hold the same during his life.

Pevensey Castle occupies a good deal of ground, nearly half as much as Dover ; the keep is an irregular polygon, or hexagon, flanked by round towers, with the entrance on the west side, over a bridge, and is surrounded by a ditch on all sides but the east. In the walls are several strata of tiles, or British bricks.

There are two entrances to the Castle, one at Pevensey, on the east ; the other at Westham, on the west. The circumference of the inner Castle is about seventy-five rod, and of the outer walls two hundred and fifty. The inside of the inner Castle consists principally of six complete arches in large towers or bastions, of which two are much larger than the others, which are supposed to have been the kitchen and refectory, or [ 90 ]eating room, from the size of the chimnies, and the doorways.

The Bishop of Bayonne and his forces sustained a six weeks siege in this Castle, but for want of provisions, were obliged to surrender to William Rusus. This is perhaps the greatest and most entire remains of Roman building in Great Britain.

This place, formerly so famous for shipping, is now only accessible by small boats, which crowd up a rivulet to it.

In 1049, Suane, Earl of Oxford, and son of Godwin, Earl of Kent, being obliged to fly into Denmark, for having inveigled Edgiva, Abbess of Leominster, out of her house, with an intent to marry her, contrary to the laws of those times, returned with eight ships, and landed at this town, where, having prevailed on his cousin Beorn to mediate for him to the King, he took him into his ship to carry him to the King, who was then at Sandwich, under pretence of making his peace; but Suane, having [ 91 ]thus got him into his power, carried him to Dorr, in Holland, where he inhumanly murdered him, and cast his body into a deep ditch, covering it with mud. Aldred, Bishop of Winchester, obtained his pardon for alluring Edgiva ; but his own conscience could not pardon his treacherous cruelty in. murdering Beorn, his kinsman, until he underwent the penance of going to Jerusalem barefoot ; - in which journey, he got so much cold, that he died thereof at Licia, in his return home.

Return through the marshes, by Wartling Hill, to

HURSTMONCEAUX,

The Lordship and estate of Godwin, Earl of Kent, as appears by Doomsday Book. When this Castle was first built, is uncertain ; but it appears that Roger de Fiennes made the Manor House here his seat, and obtained a licence from King Henry VI. to make a Castle of it, and enlarge the park with six hundred acres of land. It is the largest and [ 92 ]firmest piece of brickwork in the kingdom, for the time it has been built. There is a deep mote round it, which has been kept dry for many years, and the sides planted with fruit-trees. The rooms in this house were spacious and lofty ; from one of which, the well-known comedy of the Drummer, or Haunted House, took its rise : but about twenty years ago, the whole of the inside, the timber, window frames, &c. of this noble and ancient building were taken down by the present proprietor, a, Mr. Hare, in order to build a more modern edifice, at another part of the park.

Adjoining thp park, in the Church, is the monument of the unfortunate Lord Dacre, who suffered death, at the age of twentyfour, for the murder pf Sir Nicholas Pelham's gamekeeper. - It must be remarked that the youth, was not of the number who caused his death - he suffered for association : but surely there appears much severity in the sentence. The avowed design of the party was to take a deer from Pelham's grounds--it was not to flay his servant. The [ 93 ]original intent, I grant, was bad ; but there is an infinite difference between property and life ! The wanton frolic of youth might be delighted with the hope of stealing a deer from a neighbouring park, that would shudder at the thought of homicide ! Thomas Lord Dacre might have been a youth of this description ; but even the excellence of his character could not save him from the Monarch's award !

OLD ROAR,

About two miles to the north-west of Hastings is a fall of water, known by the name of the " Old Roar," in the middle of a thick wood, It is a small stream which rises a considerable distance off, and runs unnoticed, till it arrives at a rocky precipice in the wood, over which it falls perpendicularly about 40 feet, into a bason below. The situation is beautifully romantic ; for after long heavy rains, a large body of water tumbles over with- a tremendous roar, that is heard half a mile off. The nearest road to it is over the western hill [ 94 ]pass the windmill, leaving the hop-gardens to the left, through Mrs. Burfield's farm, from which it is distant about a mile, and forms a most delightful morning's walk.

THE GOVERS.

A little elevated above the beach, under a most stupendous cliff, about two miles to the eastward, stands a solitary cottage, called the Govers, from a wood close by, which runs along the shore, farther east. Here, in stormy weather, the raging sea rushes furiously against the bank, threatening to undermine it, and overwhelm the inhabit ants with instant destruction. "Tis an admirable situation for an Hermit.

" In these 'drear' solitudes
" Where heavenly-pensive Contemplation dwells."

— Pope.

A path winds through the wood upon the hill : thence turn to the right, and gain the summit; a little below which, on the other side, a winding track leads to a recess, overhanging the wood, known by the name of the
[ 95 ]

LOVERS' SEAT.

This place is now spoken of, as it was the scene of a neighbouring amour. The visitants of Hastings, like true devotees, go there in compliment to the passion - youth from sympathy - age to refresh the fading impression of former attachments. Never was imagery better adapted ; not an object but is calculated to set the temperament to its proper heat--all is various, all is agreeable ; here is the majestic and the simple. The mind receives a thousand enjoyments from a multiplicity of detached views that no language can express. Here is subject matter for a School of Painters ; they may succeed in the description, though the writer is defeated. " I tread on classic ground," says the itinerant scholar : " the recollection of ancient genius captivates e every sense, and I perceive the inspiration of the sacred Nine ! Here is the laurel that grows by Nature's ordinance, a proper trophy for the tomb of [ 96 ]Mars. There is the spot where Cicero surprised multitudes with his eloquence ; and fey the solidity of argument, secured the decree of justice for his client."

'Tis possible the sensations of such men, and Co situated, may be exquisite ! Can they be compared to the delight youthful sensibility experiences, when apprized of the sanctuary where love- devoted mortals have ex changed the mutual pledge of faith ?

"Where heart meets heart, reciprocally soft,
"Each other's pillow to repose divine. "

— Young. - Night the Second

The situation of this enchanting spot is perhaps not to be equalled any where. Beneath your feet is a stupendous precipice ; at the bottom is a wood, the verdure of which relieves the eye, end takes off from the horror inspired by the craggy heights and before you is the wide expanse of waters than which, from that elevated station, a finer sight cannot be imagined. The following beautiful and sublime description of [ 97 ]a storm, from Offian, may not here be thought mal-a-propos.

"The storm gathers in the western horizon, and spreads its black mantle before the Moon. It comes forward in the majesty of darkness, moving upon the wings of the blast.
"The lightning from the rifted cloud flashes before it ; the thunder rolls among the mountains in its rear, All Nature is restless and uneasy.
" The Ox lies wakeful on the mountain moss. He hears the storm roaring through the branches of the trees - he starts - and lies down again.
"The Heath-Cock lifts his head at intervals ; and returns it under his wing.
"The Owl leaves her unfinished dirge ; and sits, ruffled in her feathers, in a clift of the blasted oak.
"The famished Fox shrinks from the storm, and seeks the shelter of his den.
"The Cottager, alarmed, leaps from his pallet in the lowly hut. He raises his decayed fire. His wet dogs smoke around him. He half opens his cabin door, and looks out ; but he instantly retreats from the terrors of the night.
"Now the whole storm descends. The mountain torrents join their impetuous streams.
[ 98 ]"The Sea rover pauses on the beach. With a face of wild despair he looks around ; he recollects neither rocks nor precipices ; still he urges his bewildered way ; he trembles at the frequent flash. The thunder bursts over his head. The mountain billows roar aloud. He attempts the rapid ford. - Heard you " that scream ! It was the shriek of death !
"How tumultuous is the foaming surge ! The .waves, resounding, lash the rocks ; while the shattered bark is dash'd on the inhospitable shore.
"What melancholy shade is that fitting on the lonely " beach ! I just discern it, faintly shadowed 'out by the pale beam of the moon, pasting through a thin robed cloud. It is a female form. Her eyes are fixed on the waves. Her dishevelled hair floats loose around her arm, which supports her pensive head. Ah ! mournful Maid ! dost thou still expect thy lover over the briny ocean. Thou sawest his distant bark at the close of the day, dancing upon the feathery waves ; thy breast throbs with suspense ; but thou knowest not yet, that he lies a corpse upon the shore !"

From Lovers Seat, either descend through the wood to the beach, or return along the valley up to Mr. Dugdall's farm-house, from which is a noble prospect of the sea to a considerable distance, east and west, [ 99 ]return home by Mr. Milward's farm, or strike off to Fairlight Down, and so to Hastings by the turnpike road.

To those who are fond of walking, a variety of paths present themselves in every direction, through a country beautifully variegated with hills and vallies, woods and rivulets ; abounding every where with the most enchanting views and picturesque scenery. Ecclesbourne and the fish-ponds to the eastward ; the hop-gardens to the north-west, together with several others nearly in the same direction, will afford ample gratification to the amateurs of a romantic country.

"Come, my companions, ye who feel the charms
"Of nature and the year--come, let us stray
"Where chance or fancy leads our roving walk ;
"Come, while the soft voluptuous breezes fan
"The fleecy heavens, enwrap the limbs in balm,
"And shed a charming languor o'er the soul."

"But if the toilsome walk o'er hill and dale
"Exceed your strength ------
" - - - - go, mount th' exulting steed."

— Armstrong.

[ 100 ]The Rides about Hastings are numerous pleasant, and extensive; to say nothing of the short morning excursions near town, of which there are many. The roads to the villages of Breed, Westfield, Hollington, and many others, lie through a most charming country, diversified with unbounded landscapes, and some of Nature's choicest scenes.

FAIRLIGHT DOWN.

At a little distance from this, near the edge of the cliff, is the Signal House, which was erected during the late war. From Hastings to the wind-mill on Fairlight Down, is about two miles ; a pleasant walk, or an easy ride. About an hundred yards south-east from the mill, among the furze, is a large stump. This is the most elevated part of the Down, and was one of General Roy's stations, for determining the relative situations of the observatories of Greenwich and Paris. Near this spot also is one of the fire-beacons.

From hence, the view on every side is [ 101 ]scarcely to be paralleled in the kingdom. The British Channel, from Beachy Head to the South Foreland, presents an unbounded prospect, save where Boulogne hills uplift their dusky fades. Just under the Foreland lies Dover, whose pier-heads may be seen on a clear day. But it ought here to be observed, that the evening, about an hour or two before sunset, is the proper time for enjoying the views from this spot, in their greatest beauty. At this time, the lengthened sunbeams just gild the mountains' brow, and point where the village steeple rises with majestic grandeur above the deep embosomed wood. Every house and cottage now rears its head amidst the surrounding verdure.

Heavens ! what a goodly prospect spreads around
"Of hills, and dales, and woods, and lawns, and spires,
"And glittering towns, and " ocean wide," till all
"The stretching landscape into smoke decays!"

— Thomson.

The towns of Winchelsea, Rye, Lydd, New Romney, Tenterden, and villages in numerable, may be seen from this spot on [ 102 ]a clear evening. Across Rye Bay is Dungeness Point, on which stands the Light House, a beautiful and lofty new building, furnished with reflectors that throw a light to a great distance : notwithstanding which, a number of vessels are wrecked there in thick, stormy weather. The old Light House was first projected by Mr. Allen, a Gold smith, of Rye, in the reign of King James.

Descend Fairlight Down, through some pleasant lanes, to the village of Guestling, near which is

BROOMHAM PARK,

The seat of the late Sir William Ashburnham, Bishop of Chichester, a family of very high antiquity in this country. The house, park, and gardens are well worth viewing. From hence to

WINCHELSEA,

Is about four miles. This is one of the two ancient towns ; and by Johnson, in [ 103 ]his Atlas, it is reported to have been a city in the time of the Romans, included with Rye, under the land of Staninges. It was, as appeareth by a Charter of Henry III. given by Edward the Confessor to the Abbot and Monks of Fischamp, or Feckam, in France, and afterwards granted and confirmed by King William and King Henry, with their liberties, free customs, pleas, plaints, and causes ; but after that, by King Henry III. in the 31st year of his reign, exchanged with the said Abbot and Monks for the Manor of Chilceham, or Cheltenham, in Gloucestershire, and taken into his own hands.

The site of the first town, called by this name, is supposed to be near the Comber Point, upon a spot which is now overflowed. Tradition informs us that about the middle of the 13th century, the inhabitants were driven by the sea from this situation ; and an old book, without a title-page, which was lately in the possession of a respectable inhabitant, has the following passage : - " In [ 104 ]the month of October, in the year 1250, the moon being in its prime, the sea passed her accustomed bound?, flowing twice without ebb, and made so horrible a noise, that it was heard a great way inland, not without the astonishment of the oldest men that heard it. Besides this, at dark night, the sea seemed to be a light fire, and to burn, and the waves to beat with one another, insomuch that it was past the mariners' skill to save their ships : and to omit others, at a place called Hucheburn (probably East or Hither- Bourne) three noble and famous ships were swallowed up by the violent rising of the waves, and were drowned. And at Winchelsea, a certain haven, eastward, besides cottages for salt, fishermen's huts, bridges, and mills, above three hundred houses, by the violent rising of the waves, were drowned."

In a book remaining with the records of the town of Rye, is the following passage, [ 105 ]which, though it differs in point of date with the former, yet agrees in the main point, of the town being drowned.

"Be it remembered, that in the year of our Lord 1287, in the even of St. Agath the Virgin, was the town of Winchelsea drowned, and all the lands between Climesden and the vocher of Hithe. The same year was such plenty of corn throughout all. the counties of England, Scotland, and Wales, that a quarter of wheat was sold for two shillings."

But this tremendous event, though at last sudden, appears to have given warning of its approach ; for we are not informed that the lives of the inhabitants were lost, or, perhaps, much of their moveable property. On the contrary, we are told that they formed a new settlement, and purchased part of the parish of Icklesham, most advantageously chosen to defend them from a like calamity.

This hill, on which the present town of Winchelsea stands, is about a mile and a half from the sea, and is supposed to have borne [ 106 ]the name of Higham, or Petit Iham, as does the Manor at this day, in contradistinction of the other part of the parish, called Icclesham, or Ecclesham, from the situation of the Church. That it was purchased of, and annexed to Winchelsea, is supported by strong collateral testimony ; for the Vicar of Icclesham actually receives an annual pension from his Majesty's Exchequer, in safaction, as it has always been understood, for the tithes of that part of this parish, which the inhabitants of Old Winchelsea were allowed to purchase, and annex to their's.

The hill is near two miles in circumference, and .regularly divided into squares, containing about two acres and a quarter of ground. The number of these is now un known, but as far as thirty-nine may be pretty well ascertained. The houses formed the outline, with gardens behind them ; and the streets, which are spacious, intersect every where at right angles. This plan was admirably adapted both to health and convenience ; and when in full population, [ 107 ]must have had an elegant and beautiful appearance.

Each of the three approaches is fortified by a gate, called Newgate, Strandgate, and Landgate, whose masonry is at this time in tolerable preservation ; and as long as the surrounding level was overflowed by the sea, this was a sufficient defence : nor is there the smallest vestige of any other. The former of these gates is distant from the two latter about three quarters of a mile, and these respectively from each other, about a quarter of a mile. It must here be observed, that the present road to Icclesham led only to a Wharf or Dock, at the bottom of the hill, and therefore wanted no gate for the security of the town.

In the reign of Edward III. Anno. 1358, the French attacked and destroyed the town in part ; and in the reign of Richard II. Anno 1379, they landed again, and, as it appears from the first-mentioned book, " slew all such as did oppose them, sparing no order, age, or sex." [ 108 ]From the short interval between these calamitous events, and the foundation of the town, it may reasonably be questioned if it was ever completely finished ; but the many spacious vaults which have been found, some casually within these few years, are a sufficient evidence that it was numerously, if not fully inhabited. Queen Elizabeth, in a tour she made along the coast, in the year 1573, passed through this town, and was so much pleased with the place and situation, that she called it Little London.

A considerable traffic appears, to have been carried on, but of what sort is only conjecture ; though from its relative situation to Boulogne sur mer, and from similar vaults there in use at this day, it is not improbable that this was the mart for French wines imported to England, before the trade of Portugal was established.

The remains of three parish Churches, which, as Lambard affirms, were standing within memory when he wrote, which was in 1575, are a further evidence of its popu[ 109 ]lous and advanced state. They were dedicated to St. Leonard, St. Ǽgidius or Gyles, and St. Thomas, probably a Beckett, a Saint who was in great repute about this time. St. Gyles, with the Churchyard, occupied a square on the west side of the hill ; but the Church has been, for time immemorial, a heap of ruins. These are now so entirely removed, that no vestige of it remains, though the site is well known.

St. Leonard's Church was situate on a bold promontory, extending itself irregularly towards the west and south-west. The east side of the tower has, to this day, withstood the impetuous winds to which it is exposed ; but the other parts are level with the ground. This parish, which is very small, is in the liberty of Hastings. The Church of St. Thomas, with the Churchyard, occupies one of the center squares, and, if we may judge from its remains, was a large and beautiful building. The Chancel, which is spacious and lofty, is now used by the parishioners for their place of worship. The walls on the south and west, are finely spread with ivy, which has a solemn and majestic appear[ 110 ]ance. The north and south transept is still a fine ruin, but there are no traces of any thing more. The inside of it is regular and elegant, but in want of some advantages, which the present state of the parish does not permit ; a great part of the land being lost by the encroachments of the sea, and more rendered useless every day by the drifting of the sand. The south aisle contains two monuments of Knights Templars, who, if they are actually buried here, must have been among the latest of their famous order ; and also a modern one to the memory of John Stewart, Esq. late Commander of the Mount Stewart East Indiaman. The middle aisle is the longest and most spacious, but contains nothing remarkable. In the north are two monuments of Monks, as appears from their habit, but who, or what they were, is uncertain ; and in the Vestry-room is another Knight Templar, in excellent preservation.

At the south-west corner of the Church yard stood a square tower, detached from any building, which probably contained the [ 111 ]bells ; but, being useless and dangerous, with the consent of the Bishop and Patron, it was lately removed by the Rector. The living is in the private patronage of the Right Rev. Sir William Ashburnham, Bishop of Chichester ; and the present incumbent is the Rev. Drake Hollingberry, M. A.

There were also, according to tradition, fourteen or fifteen Chapels, which probably belonged to as many religious houses. The gable ends of several of them are now standing, and the remains of many others are easily discoverable. The most perfect is that which is now called the Friars, the property of Mr. Holford, a great part of whose chapel is standing, and particularly an arch of uncommon extent and beauty ; but the cloisters are taken away, and the cells converted into a family house, occupied by the Luxford family. This Monastery is supposed to have been founded by William de Buckingham, who dedicated it to the Virgin Mary. Its possessions were confirmed by Edward III. and [ 112 ]according to Tanner, it was a house of Grey Friars. In the Collect. Anglo-Minorit. P. 2. page 12. it is said to be the third house, in the custody of London, in the old cata logue of the Franciscan Order. After the dissolution, the site was granted, in the 36th of Henry VIII. to William Clifford and Michael Wildbore.

The municipal establishment of this town is the same as Rye and all the Cinque Ports, and still enjoys many privileges and exempt ions in common with the rest. The present Mayor, or Chief Magistrate, is Thomas Martin, Esq. From the circumstance of no limb or member being attached to Winchelsea, as there are to the rest of the ports, it mould seem that this town was formerly of greater importance than the other ports, not requiring any assistance to defray the expence of furnishing its quota of ships and men. Compared with what she was, her present situation is a melanchaly contrast, reduced to a village, containing about four hundred inhabitants, and destitute of all trade and commerce ; but still retaining the [ 113 ]privilege of sending two Burgesses to Parliament.

The present members are William Currie, Esq. and William Devaynes, Esq. The Seal of the Town is a curious piece of antiquity. On one side appears the front of a beautiful gothic Church, probably that of St. Thomas, before mentioned, enriched with the figures of several Saints, in niches and other historical embellishments. Around it is the following distich of Monkish verse.

Egidio, Thomae, laudum plebs cantica prome
Ne sit in Angaria grex suus amne, via.

On the reverse is a ship of war, rigged and manned, probably after the model of those sent by this port. Around it is this inscription -

Sigillum Baronum domini Regis Anglia de Winchelsea.

There were formerly two markets, one for cattle, kept on a spot which still retains the name of Monday's Market ; the other [ 114 ]on Fridays, for butcher's meat and other necessaries : but both are at present unfrequented. There is likewise an annual Fair for stock and pedlary goods on the 14th of May, which, though diminished, is still of some resort.

This place, though now so small, contains a number of genteel families, and some good houses. Here was formerly a consider able manufactory of cambrics, which occupied part of one of the old squares ; but the proprietors, after exhausting the greatest part of their capital in erecting workshops, and two large houses (now the property of, and inhabited by, the Rev. Mr. Hollingberry, and Francis Denne, Esq.) for the principal managers, failed ; and the whole was let to Messrs. Kirkman, Nouaille, and Clay, who established an Italian Crape Manufactory, and carried it on with great success for a number of years. Since that has been given up, the buildings have been converted into barracks for the troops quartered there.

It was here that the two noted Westons [ 115 ]resided for some months in great splendour, prior to their being taken into custody, and where indeed they were first discovered.

They came here under the assumed names of Mr. Johnson and Mr. ----; took the House called the Friars, making a very genteel appearance, with their hunters, and servants in livery ; by which means, and the philanthropic hospitality of the inhabitants, they were soon received into the genteelest company of the place, gave grand entertainments, and so far ingratiated themselves into the general good opinion, that one of them, Mr. Johnson, was actually made Churchwarden.

From hence take the road through the Strandgate; pass the New Harbour over a drawbridge, erected about thirty years ago, on making this cut up to Rye : but after spending immense sums of money here and at Rye, the whole works have proved nearly useless, both the cuts being choked up with sand and beach but the sea, as if to make some recompence for the money so [ 116 ]uselessly lavished, has opened a nook, a little to the eastward of the New Harbour, capable of receiving a number of sloops and other small craft.

WINCHELSEA CASTLE.

When over the bridge, strike into the Marsh, where, at an equal distance between Rye and Winchelsea, but not far from the sea, stands Winchelsea or Camber Castle. This is one of those Castles built by King Henry VIII. for the protection of the coast. It is thought by some to have been built on, or with the ruins of a more ancient fabric, and is said to have cost twenty-three thousand pounds. It has long been dismantled, and is now in a very ruinous state ; but the souterreins, which are extensive, are tolerably complete. It belongs, at present, to Sir William Ashburnham, proprietor of the estate on which it is built.

RYE.

Proceed on to Rye, so named from the [ 117 ]British word Rhy, signifying a ford, and importing the place where the rivers of Rother and Ree were yet fordable. This is one of the two ancient towns, enjoying like privileges with the rest of the Ports. It sends two members to Parliament. The town, which is built on a hill, consists of several streets. In the time of Edward III. it was enclosed with walls, part of which, on the west side, are yet standing ; as is likewise the land, or north gate, leading into the country towards Kent ; the postern-gate leading to the New Conduit; the strand, or south gate, leading towards Winchelsea, where the Old Harbour was ; and the gun-garden, adjoining to Ipres Tower, built by William de Ipre, Earl of Kent, and from him so called ; since purchased by the Corporation, of one Mr. Newberry, about the 10th year of Henry VII. and used to keep Court in till the building of the Town Hall (whence it acquired the name of the Court House), and then was converted into a prison. Besides the Chapel of St. Clare (now used for a Powder House), the Chantry of St. Nicholas, the Chancel whereof is still kept for an Ammunition [ 118 ]House, there was a monastery of the Friars Heremites of St. Augustine, the Chapel whereof is yet standing.

This town was burned by the French, in the reign of Richard II. and again in that of Henry VI. in which it is supposed the old Records and Charters of the Town perished ; because none older than his 27th year, except some fragments, are to be found.

By the same conflagration, the Old Church, it is thought, suffered also ; and this, now standing, built since : the former stood near to Ipres Tower, on the spot yet called the Old Churchyard. Henry VJI. visited Rye in the third year of his reign, as did Queen Elizabeth in the year 1573. In the year 1563 a pestilence carried off, in the months of August, September, and October, 562 persons. Afterwards, it was replenished by the French, who sheltered themselves here from the massacres in France in 1572 ; and in 1582, the French inhabitants in Rye conlisted of 1534 persons. It suffered severely by another plague in 1596, and again in 1625 : and by the small-pox in 1634 and 35, [ 119 ]and again in 1654 and 55. It lost many vessels in the time of the wars between the King and Parliament, all which have added to the decay thereof. King Charles II. paid it a visit in May 1673, when the English and French fleets lay in the Bay, in sight of the town.

Here was a grammar-school built by Thomas Peacock, Gent, one of the Jurats of the town, in the year 1636, and endowed by him with the yearly revenue of £35. The S.W.-S.- SE.-E.-and N. E. sides of the town have been much wasted by the sea, especially the two latter ; from whence have been washed some streets, with the boddings gate, and wall leading therefrom to the landgate.

From Rye, return along the wall to the New Harbour ; pass the drawbridge, and keep straight on by Braggs (commonly called the New Harbour House) into
[ 120 ]

PETT LEVELS

Which is about three miles across. In hard weather these levels abound with snipes and wild fowl in the numerous ditches and pools of water. If the tide is low, it is a pleasant ride along the sands to Hastings - the distance from the harbour about seven miles ; or take the lane, passing several farmhouses, till you arrive at Fairlight Church, from whence is a very extensive and beautiful prospect. Proceed over the Down to Hastings.

HOLLINGTON CHURCH.

In the middle of a wood, about four miles from Hastings, stands Hollington Church, remarkable for the singularity of its situation, not having a house or hut of any kind within a quarter of a mile ; nor is there any account when or by whom it was built. The road to Hollington Corner, as it is called, lies over the white rock to the right ; when you enter a pleasant lane, and pass a [ 121 ]farmhouse on the right, called Bohemia, occupied by Mr. Foster, and famous for plenty of fine cream ; on which account it is much frequented in the summer by tea and syllabub parties. Near the house are the ruins of a Church or Chapel, now comverted into a barn, and known by the name of the Chapel Barn. When at Hollington Corner, the road turns off to the right and left that to the left leads out by Mr. Farncombs, on Bulverhythe Levell, to the right to

BEAUPORT,

Which was the seat of the late General Murray, and now the property of Sir James Bland Burgess ; a handsome, modem-built house, situated on an eminence, nearly half way between Battle and Hastings, and commanding a very extensive view on every side. This seat is named after Beauport, near Quebec, in Canada ; at the reduction of which, in 1759, General Murray acted a very distinguished part. After quitting Beauport, pursue the turnpike to Hastings : about half way on the right is Ore Place and Church, another seat [ 122 ]belonging to the General. From hence is a very fine view of Hastings Castle, the sea, and surrounding country. Through these grounds enter a lane which leads to Hastings by the Limekilns.

BATTLE ABBEY.

The Town of Battle, which is about seven miles from Hastings on the London road, and derives its name from the great battle fought there between Harold, King of England, and William, Duke of Normandy, afterwards surnamed the Conqueror, is small, consisting of only one street indifferently built. The Church is a neat building, the incumbent whereof is styled the Dean of Battle. Here is a Charity School for forty boys. The trade of this Town consists chiefly in making gunpowder, which is esteemed the best in Europe. King Henry I. granted a market to be kept here upon every Lord's day, as was used in several other places in his time, free from all duties what ever ; but Anthony, Viscount Montague, who, about the year 1600, built himself a beautiful house here, obtained an Act of Par[ 123 ]liament to remove it to Thursdays, as it now continues.

But what is most worthy of observation at this place, is the Abbey, built by the Conqueror, the year after the battle, on that part of the field where the action had raged the fiercest ; the high altar standing on the very spot where the dead body of Harold was found, or, according to some, where his standard was taken up. It was dedicated to St. Martin, and filled with Benedictine Monks from the Abbey of Mormontier, in Normandy. The King intended to have endowed it with lands sufficient for the maintenance of one hundred and forty Monks, but was prevented by death. He, however, granted it sundry prerogatives and immunities, similar to those enjoyed by the Monks of Christ Church, Canterbury : such as the exclusive right of inquest on all murders committed within their lands ; treasure trove, or the property of all treasures found, on their estates ; Free Warren, an exemption for themselves and tenants from all episcopal and other ecclesiastical jurisdiction : [ 124 ]also this peculiar right of sanctuary, that if any person adjudged guilty of homicide, or any other crime, should fly to that Church, no harm should be done him, and he should be dismissed entirely free. But, above all, he gave to the Abbot the royal power of pardoning any condemned thief he should casually pass by, or meet going to execution. He also bestowed on them all the land for a league round their house ; like wise the Manor of Wye, in Kent ; both free from all aids, impositions, and services.

He likewise gave them his royal customs in Wye, together with his right of wreck in Dengemarsh (a member thereof), as also that of any great or royal fish, called Crassipies, which should be there driven on shore, except where it happened without certain limits ; in which case, they were to have only two parts of the fish and the tongue,these being what the King usually had.

Besides these, he endowed them with the Manors of Aldsiston, in Sussex ; Lymsfield, in Surrey; How, in Essex; Craumere, in Oxford [ 125 ]Oxfordshire ; and Briswalderton, in Berkshire, with divers other lands together with the Churches of Radings and Colunton, in Devonshire ; also that of St. Olave's, afterwards the Priory of St. Nicholas, Exeter: Moreover, he confirmed to them all gifts of lands, bestowed by his subjects, to be held as free as those granted by himself. The Abbey of Brecknock, in Wales, was also afterwards made a cell to this house.

At the dissolution, the estates of this house were valued, the twenty-sixth of Henry VIII. according to Dugdale, at £.880 14s.7d. per annum : Speed, ,£.987 Os. lOd. ; when pensions were assigned to several of the Monks. The site was granted by that King to one Gilmer, who first pulled down many of the buildings, in order to dispose of the materials, and afterwards sold the land to Sir Anthony Brown, whose descendants began to convert it into a mansion-house ; but it long remained unfinished. It was afterwards, however, so completed, as to become habitable, Sir Thomas Webster long residing in it ; in which family it still - remains, [ 126 ]remains, being inhabited at present by the, Dowager Lady Webster.

Though this Abbey is in part demolished, yet the magnificence of it appears by the ruins of the cloisters, &c. and by the largeness of the hall, kitchen, and gatehouse ; which last is entirely preserved, and makes a very grand appearance as you ride down the town. In it are held sessions and other meetings for this peculiar jurisdiction, which has still great privileges belonging to it. What the hall was, when in its glory, may be conceived by its dimensions, being in length fifty paces : part of it is now used as a hay-barn. It was leaded ; part of the lead yet remains, and the rest is tiled. As to the kitchen, it .was so large as to contain five sire-places, and was arched at top ; but the extent of the whole Abbey may be better ascertained by its circumference, it being computed at no less than a mile.

In the Church of the Abbey, the Conqueror offered up his sword and royal robe, which he wore on the day of his coronation. [ 127 ]The Monks kept these till their suppression, and used to shew them as great curiosities ; likewise a table of the Norman gentry who came into England with the Conqueror.

In the year 1381, the then Abbot of Battle, Hamo of Offinton, it is supposed, signalized himself in a very courageous manner, in repulsing a body of French, who had landed, and attacked Rye and Winchelsea ; to which latter place the Abbot repaired with what force he could muster, and fortifying it, kept the enemy at bay till such time as the country gentlemen assembled in. a body ; and coming to his assistance, drove the French from the island.

It would require much time and minute investigation to remark the separate points that command the spectators' attention in this celebrated place. The grounds are delightfully situated, the prospect rich and various ; you see Standard and Tellman hills : the former, by tradition, is the spot where William erected his consecrated colours - the latter, the place where his army was mus[ 128 ]tered. One man alone was missing; a trifling loss, compared with the number of followers.

In the Keep may be still discovered the prison, hanging post, and two carved heads, placed in opposite directions, one of Harold, the other of his victorious opposer. They are in fine preservation, though the ceiling of a gateway belonging to the Abbey, appears a strange place" for the exhibition of monarchy : William is crowned, and views his exasperated enemy with serenity and composure. It cannot be supposed that the magnanimous Norman could delight in a triumph after death ; and it certainly betrays a species of savagism in the contrivers of such a despicable insult to the memory of a fallen man, who, after balancing every pro and con, was certainly as brave to the full, and probably as just as the hero of St. Valery. Such is the difference of possession--the sun misplaced, would have no worshippers: Harold had lost his diadem, and his fall obliterated the remembrance pf every virtue he once possessed. [ 129 ]

To what base uses may we not return ?
" The foul of Caesar, dead, and turn'd to clay,
"Might patch a wall to keep the wind away."

— Hamlet.

Horses feed in the sacred sanctuary ! The stone that God devoted, Churchmen trod, is now the dormitory for Lady Webster's cattle !

But the insensible quadrupeds, feeding in calm enjoyment, ne'er think of the splendour they debase.

The cells were a fine contrast ! These might have suited the insensibility of the animal ; yet here the noblest of the creation buried themselves.

There was a passage so contrived, that the Monks, in case of danger, could find an asylum either at Hastings or Hurstmonceux. I will not vouch for the truth of this, though there are strong probabilites to support it : in short, it appears incredible that a subterraneous winding could be carried to such [ 130 ]a length ; but after the eye has witnessed the laborious process that formed St. George's Cave at Gibraltar, it facilitates the belief of the fact here related: besides, within the Sally Port at Hastings Castle, the entrance of a vault has been discovered (though it is now choked up with rubbish), and it is well known that there is a correspondent passage at Hurstmonceux ; added to this, a servant of Lady Webster's has actually penetrated to a considerable distance, and could have made a further progress, but for the impediments the decay of the roof had thrown in his way.

Many people have, through curiosity, entered this winding ; and autoptical knowledge rather strengthens, than destroys the credibility of its existence.

ASHBURNHAM

Is about four miles further on, from which a very ancient family derives its name. Bertram de Ashburnham was Sheriff of Surrey, Sussex, and Kent, when the Duke of Normandy invaded England : he was also Governor of Dover Castle, and was either slain [ 131 ]with Harold in the Battle, or beheaded by the Conqueror afterwards, for not immediately delivering the Castle to him. How ever that might be, William looked upon the family as his enemies ; and though they kept their seat, they appeared not in public for a long time. The first we find in any civil office, is John Ashburnham, who was Knight of the Shire for Sussex, and Sheriff of Surrey and Sussex in the reigns of Richard II. and Henry IV. His son and grandson Thomas, held the same office in Edward IV. and Henry VII. 's reign. In later times, William Ashburnham was a gentleman of singular loyalty to King Charles I. being one of the first who took up arms for that Monarch. He was Governor of Weymouth, and Major General of the King's forces in the West; though, after the defeat of the King's party, he was guilty of a mistake in conducting his Sovereign to Colonel Hammond, Governor of the Isle of Wight, who delivered him into the power of the army : his loyalty was never suspected either by Charles I. or II. who, after his restoration, rewarded him with the place of [ 132 ]Cofferer. His eldest brother, Sir John Ashburnham, was one of the Grooms of the Bed chamber to Charles I. and his son John was created Lord Ashburhham, 1 William and Mary, An. 1689, which honour William his son, and John his grandson, both enjoyed.

Ashburnham House and grounds are well worth seeing. In the park is a large piece of water, with a bridge over it, and, in the front, a fine hanging wood : the house, which is well furnished, contains some very fine pictures. The Church is behind the house, and in it are monuments of Sir William Ashburnham and his Lady, daughter of Lord Butler, of Herts. The inscription, writ ten by Sir William, says she was a great lover of, and blessing to his family. Both their figures are whole lengths in white marble ; her's recumbent, leaning on her hand ; his kneeling, in a loose gown and great flowing wig.

There is another monument of his elder brother and two wives, in white marble ; and [ 133 ]also two fine marble ones of the persons who attended King Charles at his execution.

In this Church are preserved, in a chest, and may be seen, the shirt and drawers which King Charles had on when he was beheaded likewise a watch which he gave Mr. Ashburnham, and the sheet which was thrown over him after the execution.

Return through Battle; and about three miles from hence, on the right, is

CROWHURST.

This Manor belongs to Mr. Pelham, through whose park you have a pleasant ride. Crawhurst, or Crowhurst, was one of the many lordships possessed by Harold, Earl of Kent, in the reign of Edward the Confessor, as appears by Domesday Book. After the conquest, it was seized by William, who gave it, with divers other estates, to Alan [ 134 ]Fergant, Earl of Brittany and Richmond, as a reward for his courage and conduct at the Battle of Hastings. It remained in this family some time, and regularly descended to John, Earl of Brittany and Richmond the last male of that family, who granted to Sir John Devereux, Captain of Calais 100 marks per annum for life to be received out of the rents of this and some other manors in this Rape. He dying with out issue, his estates devolved to his sister Joan, then widow of Ralph, Lord Basset of Drayton, who obtained the livery of the castle, county, and honour of Richmond.

Mr. Pelham has a seat in this Park, about half a mile from which stands Crowhurst Church, and near it, the ruins of a Chapel or Oratory, probably built by one of the ancient Lords of this manor but there is no tradition by whom it was erected, at what time, or for what designed. In this Church yard is a remarkable large yew-tree, nearly twenty feet in circumference. It is hollow, and has a very majestic appearance.
[ 135 ]From hence to the Grove House, the seat of the late Sir Charles Eversfield, the country is delightfully pleasant; Pass near Wilton, a farm -house, lately occupied by Mr. Cossum, of Hastings, on to Bo-peep and turn to the left, home.

The village of East-Bourne is distant from hence about eighteen miles. It is pleasantly situated at the foot of the hills, known by the name of the South Downs. At low water, a carriage may drive nearly all the way upon the sands. For a more particular account of that place, see a small publication, entitled East-Bourne.

Having already exceeded the limits first prescribed for this work, I have only to request those of my readers who prefer the Wholesome invigorating air, and charming scenes of a romantic country, to the smoke and confusion of towns and cities, to range the hills round Hastings, and then say if a country more beautifully diversified, can anywhere be seen. Brighthelmslone has its Downs, and Margate its wide extensive [ 136 ]fields ; but no shade, no woods, nor coppice to shelter the sun- burnt wanderer from mid-day's scorching heat ; no hedge-bound path wherein to indulge contemplation's solemn mood, where

".... ev'ry leaf
" Affords a tale concluding with a moral ;
" The very hazel has a tongue to teach,
" The birch, the maple, horn-beam, beech and ash."

— Village Curate

But all is bleak and cheerless as the rugged cliffs which bound their shores. Ride where you will, a dull sameness palls upon the eye ; no variety - nothing to expect beyond the hills in view.

Change but the scene ; ascend Fairlight Down, from whence a thousand varied tracks present themselves to the astonished eye.

One evening's excursion to the hop-gardens will invite fifty more. Mount the Castle hill, and contemplate the ruins of ancient grandeur. In short, strike which way you will, a boundless variety of paths, interspersed with hills and dales, woods, shaws, and [ 137 ]coppices, with rivulets meandering through, court the lengthened walk. Exercise is the surest road to health.

" Such is the reward of " active" sober life:
" Of labour such. By health the peasant's toil
" Is well repaid ; if exercise were pain
" Indeed, and temperance pain. By arts like these
" Laconia nurs'd of old her hardy sons ;
" And Rome's unconquer'd legions urg'd their way,
" Unhurt, through every toil in every clime."

— Armstrong.

[ 138 ]

YE, who amid this feverish world would wear
A body free of pain, of cares a mind,
Fly the rank city, shun its turbid air ;
Breathe not the chaos of eternal smoke
And volatile corruption, from the dead,
The dying, sick'ning, and the living world
Exhal'd, to sully heaven's transparent dome
With dim mortality.
.............................
.............................
While yet you breathe, away ; the rural wilds
Invite, the mountains call you, and the vales.

— Armstrong

[ 139 ]

LIST OF COASTING VESSELS BELONGING TO HASTINGS.

Names.	Description.	Tons.	Owners.
William	Snow	157	Breeds and Co.
Milward	Sloop	60	Ditto
Active	Ditto	37	Thwaites and Co.
Harmony	Ditto	40	Breeds and Co.
Fanny	Ditto	36	Phillips
Farmer's Delight	Ditto	59	Breeds and Co.
Friendship	Ditto	36	Thwaites and Co.
Jemima	Ditto	56	Brees and Co.
Plough	Ditto	40	Ditto
Russell	Brig	88	Ditto
Brothers	Sloop	56	Thwaites and Co
John and Mary	Ditto	30	Breeds and Co
Farmers	Ditto	36	Thwaites and Co

[ 140 ]

LIST OF GUN BOATS UNDER CAPTAIN ISAAC SCHOMBERG.

Names.	Tons.	18-pounders.	Owners.
Mary Privateer	72	2	Miller
Dash	70	2	Heayott
Charming Molly	61	2	Bailey
Lion	93	2	Wenham
Lord Duncan	113	2	Bailey
Dover	126	2	Wenham
Ox	105	2	Southcott
Ant	34	2	Denny
Nile Privateer	156	2	Thwaites

List of Fishing Boats fitted with Guns

Ox
Flying Fish
Two Brothers
Mackarel (1st)
Mackarel (2nd)
Susanna
Brothers (1st)
Brothers (2nd)
Betsy
Three Sisters
Ranger

Each fitted with a 12 pound carronade.
[ 141 ]

Town and Port of Hastings

Abstract of Returns of Persons in the Town and Port of Hastings, and Liberties thereof, in the Year 1801.

Houses				Persons, including Children		Total Male and Female	Occupations			Total of Persons
	Inhabitants	By how many families occupied	Uninhabited	Male	Female		Persons Chiefly employed in Agriculture	Trade, Manufactory &c.	Not comprised in two former classes
St. Clement	290	362	7	692	897	1589	15	143	1431	1589
All Saints	206	261	5	501	593	1094	28	229	837	1094
St. Mary Castle	41	48	8	102	136	238	13	35	190	238
Holy Trinity	2	3	0	6	4	10	4	0	6	10
St. Mary Magdalen	3	5	0	20	31	51	20	0	31	51
Total	542	679	20	1321	1661	2982	80	407	2495	2982

Exclusive of Soldiers, Persons serving in the Navy, or belonging to registered Vessels.
Total of Sea Fencibles enrolled, 290; Volunteers, 160; Land Fencibles and Town Guard, 80.
Total Sea and Land Fencibles, &c. 530.
[ 142 ]

TIDE TABLE FOR HASTINGS.

Moon's Age		High Water		Low Water
		Hours	Minutes	Hours	Minutes
New	Full	10	48	5	0
Days 1	16	11	36	5	48
2	17	12	24	6	36
3	18	1	12	7	24
4	19	2	0	8	12
5	20	2	48	9	0
6	21	3	36	9	48
7	22	4	24	10	36
8	23	5	12	11	24
9	24	6	0	12	12
10	25	6	48	1	0
11	26	7	36	1	48
12	27	8	24	2	36
13	28	9	12	3	24
14	29	10	0	4	12

The Tide, if a strong Wind, will hold up half an Hour longer.