A Coast Companion to Rye-Winchelsea-Hastings-St. Leonards-East-Bourne-Brighton-Worthing-and Bognor (Francis Coghlan c1830)

Around 1830, H. Hughes published the Francis Coghlan Coast Companion to Rye, Winchelsea, Hastings, St. Leonards, Eastbourne, Brighton, Worthing and Bognor as part of a set of travel guides covering the UK and Europe.

The full book may be found online at Google Books or hosted on this site here. This excerpt covers the sections referring to Hastings & St. Leonards (pp 13-35) and transcribed with the assistance of OCR technology below:

[ 13 ]

Hastings

The entrance to Hastings by the London road is one of the finest that can be imagined. It opens on a smooth terrace from the Down, from whence is an extensive prospect of Pevensey Bay, Beachy Head, Bourne Hills, and a large space of sea.

When through the turnpike-gate, the valley of Hastings appears discovering the Upper Church, and the tops of houses. At the bottom of the hill you enter a pleasant shady lane, on each side of which are tall spreading trees, whose branches in the summer form an arch which is impenetrable, through which you enter to the town, consisting of two parallel streets of considerable length, running nearly north and south, and opening to the sea, with several lesser ones intersected by gardens and a suburb, which extends along the beach; A small stream of water called the Bourne, runs between the two main streets, which empties itself into the sea, Here are several modern-built handsome houses, and the number is still increasing.

The valley in which the town of Hastings is built, forms a spacious and beautiful amphitheatre of an oval figure, sloping to the south;[ 14 ]the houses and gardens rising gradually to the east, and the hills to the north.

This town was formerly defended by a strong wall next the sea, which ran across the valley from hill to hill, having two gates, one at the bottom of the Oak Hills, the other to the eastward, at the bottom of Fish-street. There are yet standing some remains of it, at a place called the Bourne’s Mouth, which runs from thence to the gate steps, and proves it to have been of considerable strength and thickness. Vestiges of a Roman encampment. are discernible, eastward of the town upon a hill. It is of considerable extent, and appears to have been strongly fortified, for which purpose the situation is well calculated.

Hastings had formerly a good harbour; a large wooden pier that ran out in a south-east direction below, where the fort now stands, admitting large vessels to lie and unload alongside; but about the beginning of Queen Elizabeth’s reign, this pier was destroyed by a storm, since which time it has remained in its present state, and is called the Stade. Large pieces of timber, the remains of the pier, are still to be seen at particular times, at low water, when the tide has swept away the beach, covered by enormous rocks, which were brought there to form the [ 15 ]foundation; and three or four long rows of piles are visible every day at half ebb, which shews the direction in which the pier ran.

At the west end of the Stade is a fort, built about the year 1764; prior to which there were two small batteries. In violent gales the present fort is an excellent barrier against the sea, which would otherwise have broke into and considerably damaged the suburbs, particularly in January 1792, when there was an extraordinary high tide, with a most furious gale of wind, at south, which did much mischief, both here and on other parts of the coast. The sea was not remembered by the oldest inhabitant to have flowed so high as on that day, Some capsterns and rope-shops, which had stood for years unmolested by the tides, were torn up and washed along the shore. A large boat of fifteen or twenty tons burthen, that stood near the Bourne’s Mouth, was washed off its wood, and thrown up against the houses, The vessels upon the Stade were in great danger. The banks along the road to the westward of the town were all broke in upon, and in many parts carried away. The suburbs were a continued stream, the water running through the houses, and carrying with it different articles of furniture; men, women, and children were wading about from house to house, [ 16 ]&c., which at once formed a scene distressing and ludicrous. It happened fortunately in the day-time, or the consequences might have been much more disastrous.

The trade of this town was formerly very considerable; sixty or seventy years ago, they had vessels which traded from hence up the Straits; the fishery was then much more considerable than it now is, especially the herring, of which great ‘quantities were dried and exported.

The herring season commences about the beginning of November, and is generally over by the middle of December. Some idea may be formed of the extent and value of the herring fishery at Hastings, when it is mentioned, that in one day, a few years since, as. many herrings were landed on the beach as sold for upwards of £900. The herring voyage is succeeded by the trawl fishing,-which comprehends soles, skaite, thornbacks, maids, and some turbot. The mackarel season commences about May, and continues till about August, when flat fish comes in again, and employs the fishermen till the return of the herring voyage. Some whitings are caught here in the autumn, though not in any great quantity, but they afford excellent sport to those who are fond of angling: boats may be hired at a small expense, with proper lines and hooks; a [ 17 ]few herrings are easily procured for bait; the whitings will bite nearly as fast as the hooks can be let down.

Battle of Hastings.

At Hastings was fought that famous battle between Harold, king of England, and William, duke of Normandy, on the 14th of October 1066, in which the former was defeated and killed; and by his death, William, surnamed the Conqueror, became king of England. The night before the battle the aspect of things was very different in the two camps—the English spent the time in riot, jollity, and disorder; the Normans in prayer, and other duties of religion. In the morning the Duke divided his army into three lines; the first, headed by Montgomery, consisted of archers and light-armed infantry; the second, commanded by Martel, was composed of his bravest battalions, heavy-armed, and ranged in close order; his cavalry, at whose head he placed himself, formed the third line; and were so disposed that they stretched beyond the infantry, and flanked each wing of the army. He ordered the signal of battle to sound, and the whole army moving at once, and singing the hymn or song of Roland, the famous peer of [ 18 ]Charlemagne, advanced in order and with alacrity towards the enemy.

Harold had seized the advantage of a rising ground, and having besides drawn some trenches to secure his flanks, he resolved to stand upon the defensive, and to avoid all action with the cavalry, in which he was inferior. The Kentish men were placed in the van, a post which they always claimed as their due; the Londoners guarded the standard; and the King himself, accompanied by his two valiant brothers, one named Gurth and the other Leotin, placed himself at the head of his infantry, and expressed his resolution to conquer or to perish in the action.

The first attack of the Normans was desperate, but was received with equal valour by the English; and, after a furious combat, which remained long undecided, the former overcome, by the difficulty of the ground, and hard pressed by the enemy, began first to relax their vigour; then to give ground, and confusion was spreading among the ranks, when William, who found himself on the brink of destruction, hastened, with a select band, to the relief of his dismayed forces. His presence restored the action; the English were obliged to retreat with loss; and the Duke, ordering his second line to advance, [ 19 ]renewed the attack with fresh forces, and with redoubled courage. Finding that the enemy, aided by the advantage of ground, and animated by the example of their prince, still made a vigorous resistance, he tried a stratagem, which was very delicate in its management, but which seemed advisable in his desperate situation, when, if he gained not a decisive victory, he was totally undone: he commanded his troops to make a hasty retreat, and to allure the enemy from their ground, by the appearance of flight. The artifice succeeded against these unexperienced troops, who, heated by the action, and sanguine in their hopes, precipitately followed the Normans into the plain. William gave orders, that at once the infantry should face about upon their pursuers, and the cavalry make an assault upon their wings, and both of them pursue the advantage which the surprise and terror of the enemy must give them in that critical and decisive moment. The English were repulsed with great slaughter, and driven back to the hill, where, being rallied again by the bravery of Harold, they were able, notwithstanding their loss, to maintain the post, and continue the combat. The Duke tried the same stratagem a second time, with the same success; but, even after this double advantage, he still found a great [ 20 ]renewed the attack with fresh forces, and with redoubled courage. Finding that the enemy, aided by the advantage of ground, and animated by the example of their prince, still made a vigorous resistance, he tried a stratagem, which was very delicate in its management, but which seemed advisable in his desperate situation, when, if he gained not a decisive victory, he was totally undone: he commanded his troops to make a hasty retreat, and to allure the enemy from their ground, by the appearance of flight. The artifice succeeded against these unexperienced troops, who, heated by the action, and sanguine in their hopes, precipitately followed the Normans into the plain. William gave orders, that at once the infantry should face about upon their pursuers, and the cavalry make an assault upon their wings, and both of them pursue the advantage which the surprise and terror of the enemy must give them in that critical and decisive moment. The English were repulsed with great slaughter, and driven back to the hill, where, being rallied again by the bravery of Harold, they were able, notwithstanding their loss, to maintain the post, and continue the combat. The Duke tried the same stratagem a second time, with the same success; but, even after this double advantage, he still found a great [ 21 ]Hastings, after a battle which was fought from morning till sun-set, and which seemed worthy, by the heroic feats of valour displayed by both armies, and by both commanders, to decide the fate of a mighty kingdom. William had three horses killed under him; and there fell near 15,000 men on the side of the Normans. The loss was still more considerable on that of the vanquished, besides the death of the King and and his two brothers. The dead body of Harold was brought to William, who restored it without ransom to his mother.

Of the different objects of note in the town of Hastings,

THE CASTLE

stands pre-eminent, the approach to which is from the further extremity of Wellington-square. When half-way up the hill, the visitor will perceive a wooden hand-rail, by following which he will speedily find himself within the castle walls, the entrance being through a small gate. On entering, he will have to pay at the lodge the sum of three-pence.

The castle, when entire, was of great extent; its shape, two sides of an oblique spherical triangle, with the points rounded off. The base, or south side, completing the triangle, is formed by [ 22 ]a perpendicular craggy cliff, about 400 feet in length, whose inaccessible height rendered any attack fruitless on the side of the sea.

The east side is formed by a plain wall, of 300 feet in length, without tower or defence of any kind; the side facing the north-west is about 400 feet, and the whole enclosed area contains about an acre and a-quarter. The walls are in no part entire, but in some places are eight feet thick. In the castle formerly stood

A CHAPEL

(now in ruins), which had a dean and several canons or prebendaries, with a revenue, valued at the dissolution at £61. 13s. 5d. per annum.

The remains of the gateway may still be seen. To the westward, are the remains of a small tower, enclosing a circular flight of stairs; and on the same side, still further westward, are a sally-port and the ruins of a square tower. Within the sally-port is the entrance to a vault by steps, which, together with the vault, have been recently cleared out. Behind the east wall is a dry ditch, about sixty feet deep and one hundred feet wide at the top.

The whole circumference of the castle is now enclosed; and the interior, which has been laid out as a flower garden, with grass plot, shrubs, [ 23 ] and plants of all descriptions, presents a very pleasing appearance. Seats also are placed in different parts of the grounds for the accommodation of visitors, and refreshments may be procured of the person who has charge of the curiosities at the lodge. The views from the castle are very extensive, comprehending, towards the south, a wide range of ocean, and towards the west, Eastbourne, Bexhill, Beachy Head, &c. Proceeding along the main road over the wooden bridge, is a pretty little farm house, called

The Priory,

so named from a priory of black canons, founded here in the reign of Richard the First, and of which some remains of the old walls are yet standing. The name of “Priory” now comprehends all the lodging and dwelling houses which have been erected to the westward of the castle, and these have increased so rapidly of late years, that they form no inconsiderable portion of the town.

St. Clement’s Church,

in the High Street, commonly called the lower church. It contains several curious inscriptions in brass and marble; also, in a gilt frame, the benefactions of the Honourable Archibald [ 24 ]Hutcheson, one of the barons in parliament in the reign of Queen Anne.

All Saints’ Church,

or the upper church, as it is generally denominated, is a larger and loftier building than St. Clement’s, but it contains nothing worthy of particular remark.

The two parish churches just named having been found insufficient to contain the great increase of visitors, a new church,

St. Mary’s

by name, has been erected in the centre of Pelham Crescent. It is a very handsome structure, and of sufficient extent to contain between 1,800 and 2,000 persons. The first stone was laid by the Countess of Chichester, on the 21st September 1825, and the building was consecrated by the Bishop of Chichester, on the 28th January 1828.

The dissenting places of worship are, the Croft Chapel, a neat and commodious building, calculated to contain 500 persons; a Wesleyan Meeting, in Waterloo-place; another in the parish of Holy Trinity, near the White Rock; Ebenezer Chapel, on the east hill, and another near Court House-street. [ 25 ]

The Town Hall

in the High-street, is a neat and commodious building. Here may be seen a shield bearing the arms of France, brought from Quebec and presented to the corporation by General Murray.

The Post Office

is opened every morning at seven o'clock; letters may be put in until eight o’clock in the evening.

The Bank

situated in High-street, is an old established concern, corresponding with Spooner, Attwood, and Co., London.

The Theatre

is now conveniently situated between High-street and All Saints-street. Up to the year ~ 1827, the corporation resisted every attempt to build a theatre in the town, and those who sought amusement in theatrical representations, were compelled to be content with the accommodation of an old barn two miles on the London road, adjoining the Hare and Hounds Inn.

The season usually commences about July.

Musical Promenade

in Pelham Arcade. It consists of long rows of shops for millinery, jewellery, French china, &c.; [ 26 ]in the evenings music, singing, raffles, &c. are introduced. Admission one shilling.

St. Clement’s Caves

are excavations in the sand; the entrance is at the back of Gloucester-place, under the west-hill; they are opened to visitors once a fortnight, when they are lighted up; a trifling sum is charged for admission.

The Circulating Libraries

are pleasantly situated in view of the sea, the oldest established is the

Marine Library

, adjoining the Parade; it contains an extensive collection of works of merit, besides a regular supply of daily papers, periodicals, &c.; over the reading room is an excellent Billiard Table.

Powell’s Library

, at the east end of the Parade, is a similar establishment; near this spot a view may be obtained of a fragment of the castle said to be a facsimile of the portrait of George the Third.

The Beach

may, with justice, be pronounced one of the greatest attractions of the town of Hastings; at low water there is a fine level sand, which ex[ 27 ]tends to a considerable distance. The hour for the receding of the tide is anxiously looked for by the children, who may be seen at such times in great numbers, amusing themselves by picking up shells, riding on donkeys, &c. Ladies and gentlemen also may be seen galloping up and down the sands; some on ponies, others on more spirited animals.

Even at high tide the beach is much frequented, and the seats and benches are constantly occupied by individuals who are anxious to inhale the sea breezes, while they are either reading, talking, or otherwise amusing themselves. The

Marine Parade

forms a delightful promenade, it is 800 feet in length; it is not only ornamental and useful but does great credit to the inhabitants, who erected it at a cost of £1,000 by voluntary subscription.

Sea Bathing

at Hastings is excellent, and the water is beautifully pure; at low tide a person may walk out to a considerable distance, without the least fear of any accident. The machines are similar to those in use at Ramsgate, but they have no hoods over them; persons bathing are therefore more exposed to the public gaze. New and elegant [ 28 ]

Warm Baths

have been erected in Pelham-place; these, which are distinguished as the

Pelham Baths

, are allowed to be the handsomest in the kingdom, and are conducted on the most liberal scale. Here is, also, a shampooing bath, much used by invalids and persons suffering from a severe cold. The

Marine Baths

on the parade, near the library, were erected by the inhabitants of the place; they are much frequented, and very generally approved of.

The Market

is held under the Town-hall on Wednesday and Saturday, when there is a plentiful supply of meat, poultry, eggs, butter, vegetables, &c.

The Fish Market

is on the beach, near the Fort, where turbot, soles, whiting, &c. may be purchased, both reasonable and fresh. Seven o'clock in the morning is the best time to make your purchase.

Fishing

Those who are fond of this amusement may have some excellent sport during the whiting [ 29 ]season. By speaking to one of the boatmen over-night, all the tackle, bait, &c. will be provided by an early hour in the morning. By making up a party of six, the expense of the boat will be very trifling, but if one person only hires it the cost will be six or eight shillings.

Pleasure-Boats

make short excursions daily, when the weather permits. The visitor may either make one of a party, at eighteen-pence each person, or the vessel may be hired by a party for half a guinea; the hours of starting are, usually, ten, half-past ten, and eleven o’clock, Row-boats may also be had for a trifling sum, and when the sea is sufficiently calm, they are in great requisition.

Coaches

to London leave the Castle, Kentish, Deudney’s, and Swan Hotels, every morning, at half-past eight, ten, and half-past ten. Coaches also every morning during the summer, along the coast to Brighton, Dover, Margate, Ramsgate, &c.

Races

usually take place about the middle of September, on a piece of ground two miles on the Bexhill road. The arrangements are generally calculated to ensure the most excellent sport. [ 30 ]===Pony Chaises=== , Carriages, &c. may be hired, either by the day or by the job; the chief stand is near Pelham-place; they are drawn by mules, others by donkeys or ponies, and in every respect well appointed.

The Vicinity of Hastings

is celebrated for its picturesque scenery; indeed so various and abundant are the objects worthy being pointed out to the notice of the reader that we must be content to mention those most attractive. The first point is usually

Fairlight Down

which is two miles distant from Hastings. About two hundred yards to the south-east of the windmill will be seen a large stump, placed here to denote that this-is the most elevated part of the Down. It was here where General Roy was stationed, when he ascertained the relative situations of Greenwich and Paris. The view from hence is scarcely to be equalled in the kingdom; no less than three bays, six castle ruins, fourteen market towns, fifty-seven village churches, and the coast of France are distinctly visible; on a clear day, the pier-head of Dovor(sic) may also be discerned. [ 31 ]Evening is the best time to enjoy the views from this spot, about an hour before sunset.

Fairlight Church,

situate on a small eminence; from hence also a very comprehensive view may be obtained. At a little distance may be seen the

Signal House

near the edge of the cliff; it was erected during the late war.

Lover's Seat

is a favourite retreat. Whence it derived its appellation is not very correctly known; some affirm that it was the scene of a neighbouring amour; others, that a lovelorn damsel took her seat here, for the purpose of waving her white handkerchief to attract the notice of her disconsolate swain, who was hurried away to sea and whose vessel passed within sight of the place. Beneath is a stupendous precipice, covered with shrubs and evergreens, which here grow in abundance. The prospect from the Lover's Seat is delightful, and the sea breezes are so refreshing that many are tempted to visit the spot, during the summer season.

The Dripping Well

is situate in a beautiful wood, immediately above [ 32 ]Covehurst Cottage, towards the brow of the cliff.

Fish-Ponds

are in the immediate neighbourhood of the well.

The walks here are of the most romantic description, and seats have been placed at convenient distances from each other, for the accommodation of the numerous persons who visit this sequestered spot for the purposes of reading or drawing. The ponds themselves possess little interest, being simply two small pieces of water divided in the centre by a grass plot; to the surrounding scenery alone are they indebted for the renown they have acquired. — At the adjoining farm-house, refreshments may be obtained.

Hollington Church

is situated in the centre of a large wood, and remarkable for not having a house of any kind within a quarter of a mile of it. The church is a very pretty object, and from the singularity of its situation attracts a great number of visitors; service is only performed here occasionally.

Ore Church

only a mile and a-half from Hastings across the fields at the back of Wellington-square. It is a very neat structure; and being on an elevation, [ 33 ]a fine view may be obtained from it of the castle and the surrounding country.

Old Roar

is a well known waterfall in the centre of a thick wood. Formerly there was a cataract here, formed by a stream which fell perpendicularly over a rocky precipice in the wood about forty feet into a basin below, the noise of which was heard to the distance of several miles, The situation, together with the surrounding scenery, is perfectly enchanting.

St. Leonards

is a mile distant from the old town of Hastings. This fashionable watering place, the speculation of the well-known architect Mr. Burton, was only commenced building in the year 1828, but the works have proceeded so rapidly that it can now boast of several excellent hotels on the most extensive scale, a very large, commodious, and wellasrranged library, an esplanade, warm baths, billiard rooms, and some public gardens, laid out with much taste, rural walks, and shady retreats.

The Martello Towers

were erected during the late war, to guard against invasion from the opposite coast of France, on the sea-beach between Eastbourne [ 34 ]and Dovor(sic). They are placed at irregular distances, but generally within about half or three-quarters of a mile from each other. Their form is circular, the walls being of great thickness, and the roofs bomb-proof. Two or more guns are mounted upon each, on a revolving frame, by which they may be pointed in every direction, while a high parapet completely secures the artillery-men from danger. The entrance into each is a narrow opening, at a considerable height from the ground, by the assistance of a ladder, which is afterwards drawn up, and the aperture effectually closed from within; the lower part contains the ammunition and provisions, which are lodged in apartments that are equally bomb-proof with the roof. The great object of these towers is to enable a small number of men to defend them for a considerable length of time, against any force of the enemy.

Old Woman’s Tap,

is the rock on which it is supposed William the Conqueror dined after his landing; it hangs over a pool of water, and still retains the name of the “ Conqueror’s Table.” Bo-Peep, a public-house by the road-side, frequently used for tea-drinking.

From the hill behind the house is a fine [ 35 ]view of the sea and Beachy Head. From Bo Peep to Bulverhythe is about a mile and a half over the levels; which, in winter, abounds with snipes and wild fowl, and some plover. Here was formerly a haven of the same name, but no remains of it are now visible. Behind the house, in a field, are the ruins of an ancient church or chapel.

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